So, I’m reaching out for some building ideas, and I have a good amount of questions so I will be doing one question at a time:
What are some ideas for how this Hardie will meet the brick?
Note: I am open to the idea of firing the wall out.
should be battened out with flashing behind… not really a Sketchup issue though, you need an architect
Haha! That’s why I’m reaching out to you, my forum friends! (but seriously, the client won’t be interested in an architect, so we’re trying to figure something out.)
Duly noted
You need a water table. It can be brick or wood for that detail. It sits on top of the brick and has a sloped top. Metal flashing is set behind the siding and flashed to the air infiltration barrier or set behind the barrier. The flashing then extends along the slope until it is clear of the siding. Don’t forget your thru wall flashing and weeps at the bottom of the brick. Also sheet waterproof behind the brick.
Neat! We saw a few pictures of this and even a couple of details that seemed to have all the info you described! We will be subbing out the brick, and don’t have much experience with it.
Something to keep in mind.
When you ask questions like these you are asking for free information from someone who has spent many years and expense to gain the knowledge and experience to be qualified to design houses. Many people will happily give you the benefit of their experience. However, be aware that there is a fine line here, it could be argued that you are taking work from qualified practitioners. I’m not saying you are but it is a reality that many people have to deal with in these days of everything being available on the internet.
It is similar to the way we get annoyed by Free users having Clients. We have forked out for the software so why should we help people who are illegally using the free software for commercial use.
Anyway, just thought I would mention it as it is different to asking Sketchup questions. If this was an architectural forum it would be different.
Ah… I didn’t think about that… @Sonder could literally charge money for answering questions like this.
Sorry guys…
Braden, you should invest in a copy of “Building Construction Illustrated” by Francis D. K. Ching . Money well spent for the work your doing. Just a thought…. 
Also Ramsey/sleeper Architectural Graphic Standards.
That is a serious book.
Another good one is “Interior Graphic and Design Standards” by
S. C. Reznikoff.
The Advantech is typically 3/4". You need to install the OSB directly to the framing as it serves as structural/sheer panels. Ditch the foam, it’s worthless. Put R-19 in the stud cavity. You need Tyvek over the OSB and there will only be about 1/2" air space between brick and Tyvek/OSB. No matter how you draw it, that is how we build them 
40 year design-build contractor, 30 years CAD.
Oops. In the subarctic we today specify about 50 mm (2"). With a small air space the masonry will inevitably touch the wood structure there and there. With heavy rain and wind it will leak water into the wood wall. After some widely publicized failures the code has been made more strict.
But the southernmost part of the Finnish mainland is about at the same latitude as the northernmost tip of Labrador.
There should never be a chance that brick veneer touches framing if the assembly is installed correctly. There should be a weather resistant barrier (Tyvek) between the brick and the sheathing/framing We don’t build residential in the states with a 2" air gap. I have seen this detail before but in 42 years never have seen it built. Sometimes we look at architectural details made by people who have never built anything, smile and move on
Here in the UK the recommended cavity gap is 50mm - that’s from all the major materials manufacturers and construction trade bodies, e.g. TRADA.
Long time builder here and I’ve built with 50mm cavity - just saying…
( long time CAD too 
)
In the US the typical air gap is 1”. In my area we don’t use brick much. We mainly use stone veneer and most masons do not use an air space. Instead wicks to weeps are installed to deal with moisture and self adhered waterproofing is installed behind. When I was back east all brick and stone was installed with the air space. Thru-wall flashing is used in either condition at the base.
I love masonry. If I wasn’t an architect I think I would have been a mason. I trained under a German architect early in my career who was also a highly skilled brick mason. I remember one occasion when a field mason balked at a detail he designed…hand me the trowel! The mason was blown away.
1-1/8" was more common in our area, such that it was less expensive than 3/4". We are using it for improved deflection on a second level floor and would have paid extra to have the thicker stuff for that same reason.
The OSB is still serving that same purpose and yes there will be tyvek on it. There are R-Sheathing panels in the Zip System that have foam that’s really thick, 2"+. The radiant rigid foam board we will be using has the same compression rating as the foam used in the Zip System. The purpose of the foam is to provide a thermal break between the OSB and the studs. https://www.huberwood.com/zip-system/insulated-r-sheathing
“But what about the insulation, aren’t we typically putting that inside the house? Yes, but is that the best place for it? Will it protect the structure from the heat/cold extremes if it’s outside? What if we put the insulation on the OUTSIDE of the building, then it would do a terrific job of protecting the structure from expansion, contraction, corrosion, decay, & UV. If it’s a chilly day outside, would you put your fleece jacket on your body OR would you eat your fleece jacket so it would be in between your ribs? That’s not a perfect analogy, but you get the picture. Insulation on the outside makes perfect sense.” ~Matt Risinger
That is a great product. There are a number of combined insulation systems now that have rigid insulation bonded to the sheathing. You have to be careful though, especially to those systems that place the sheathing to the outside. They typically have enhanced nailing to handle the shear loss due to the insulation gap.
I’ve not had experience with the Zip system but am more interested in it lately. Are you saying the foam is part of the Zip board in your case? Does the engineer account for the foam in the shear nailing? I know one thing, the radiant barrier might just be there by default, but I always read that it doesn’t work without an air gap facing the reflective material.
