Make a solid cylinder with a sloping top and a hole thru it


I need to make a solid cylinder with a sloping top and a hole thru it?

The far side of that donut wants to be at the top of the block. The nearside is where it is suppose to be.
Basically, at the angle of the guide lines.
How do I accomplish that?


It’s difficult to understand exactly what you want from your vague description. Is this sort of what you need?


U got it. I guess my mind went on vacation b/c I have done that b4. I will probably have to do it external to the main part because of the close quarters in there, then place the cycl into the part.


Are you editing existing geometry or adding another part? If so, is what’s there a group or component? I ask because it’s often easier to draw a part like that in place rather than drawing elsewhere and moving it into place. And, if needed, you can use the existing geometry as a reference. You might even be able to copy some edges from the existing group and use them to make the new part.


I think I just keep getting into trouble!
I got the part made. I did use a piece of the main model to build from, but when I put it back into the main model it didn’t quite join back up.

The selected part is the bottom of the new part which was made from the circle it is suppose to mate up with. But as u can see, it does not.
I just pushed it a little more and now I have about 3/4 that is mated. There must be an easy way to get circles to join. Technically, they r the same circle. This is the top and bottom

The other issue is how to make this cylinder a dome or 1/2 sphere?

thx for ur help.


Could you share the SKP file? Even privately?


not a problem

headphone part 1.skp (1.2 MB)

they r groups and I set them together and zoomed in on the issue.

The line on the top of the cylinder mates with the corner of the rectangle. I used that to place them together but the mate isn’t critical. It can go down a little. The bottoms of each must be one surface.





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I took a few minutes and redrew your model. Some of your dimensions were kind of difficult and there are a bunch of other issues so it was easier to start from scratch. The cylinder fits tightly in the hole now. Both parts are now solid components and should be printable.

When you draw circles you should make sure to always drag the radius out on axis. That will make it much easier to work with those circles and the resulting shapes.
headphone part 1.skp (742.6 KB)


I thought I was doing that - drawing out on axis.
Is that what the issue was with that piece?

what else did I mess up? I must make this a learning experience.

I have done that follow me a couple of times but I guess my mind was elsewhere.

thx for making me feel bad "I took a few minutes to redraw your model"
just kidding.

Thx for ur help.


I didn’t mean to make you feel bad. With practice you’ll be able to draw it quickly, too.

The vertices on the edge of the hole that I checked weren’t on the centerlines of the block shape so I deduced that the circle wasn’t drawn on axis. To make the bushing or whatever that is, I started by copying the edge of the hole from the component and pasted it in place outside the component. By doing that, I knew I’d have a perfect fit. I drew the rest of the bushing in place in the hole. Although it’s not difficult to move a component into place precisely, it’s even easier if you don’t have to move it at all.

In your model there are also missing faces and reversed faces as well as extraneous edges. All of those things would prevent them from being considered “solid” and printable.


OH, BTW, I forgot to mention that was a 10:1 model.
I had to fix a couple holes, but it is manafold and I tried to print it - HA, HA, HA

The original is on the left - hard to see.
the middle is with support, the right is without support
I will try to clean it up enough to make it work.
I may try to print it flat - but I probably need to make the first run solid for the bridge to have any change of working.
thx again.


well, the PLA one may actually work. The blue ones were ABS. I guess I need to tweak those settings. It must need some air.


It’s good to see the results.


It gets better
I discovered that both sides were broken. When I took the other side apart I found another piece was missing from the model. It needed ears.

It seems like they get better every time I print it. Here is the last one with ears.

the printer struggles with printing in open space, but good enough.

thx again.


I’m glad it’s getting better. Are you having to make temperature or other adjustments to the printer?


Bill analyze your model with mesh mixer for some ideas. You can tilt it or have the program add some removable support to help with the sagging issue your are seeing

If your printer does not give you better material to use you may have to submit to have it printed. Don’t think you would want to use support approach


I assy it but the tabs were to fragile for this and broke right off. I may try to tweak the temp for abs and try that again. But it is assy and if it stays together I will just leave it till it falls apart again.

I will try the mesh mixer to see what it get. Still learning.


BILL: The very first decision you have to make is the print technology you need to use for the item you want to print. The use of melted plastic is in inherently not good for unsupported structure. You solution is not meshmixer but using the correct material. See this link Imaterialise has a link in the ware house you can submit the model too and see what they recommend. If you printer cannot use correct material which probably not then it may cost you a few $$ to get it properly printed.
Shapeway also has a free web based service and they also provide Netfabb free which is their analysis tool. If you read the forum discussion there is info on tolerance need for snap in parts etc; don’t know what you plan on insert??
BTW if you install on print platform on its back most should print ok except the tabs which may need some support. Don’t have model inclusive of those parts