Turn off Length snapping, set appropriate units for the model size and set Display Precision as fine as it will go for the units so you can see if you have allowed imprecision to creep in. Also make sure you are entering precise dimension when needed and that you are staying on axis with the modeling.
That’s from a plugin that, as I recall, the author withdrew. I still have the thing though.
I was able to spot the imprecise dimensions by doing what I indicated above with Display Precision and running a cut list to look at all of the parts in list form.
Years of looking at other people’s models and looking for things like apparently thick edges. That’s easier to do if you set Profiles to 1 in the style and use Monochrome face style so the textures don’t mask these problems.
Started over. I generally find it easier to do that than chase through a model looking for things to fix.
It’s been a long time and I didn’t keep the model so I don’t remember all the details. I basically modeled the parts to fit correctly.
The dadoes were there. The shelves were one piece and the vertical dividers were set into shallow dadoes top and bottom. The dadoes were stopped back half an inch or so from the front edge of the shelves so they don’t show.
I would generally a model like this with the front left leg. It would be made into a component, copied to the back and the copy flipped in the green direction. Rails would be added between those verticals and a panel added. Each part would be a component and when components are the same, I would make copies to save myself work. Once the side assembly is complete I would copy all of that over to the right side and flip along the red direction to mirror these components. Then I would add the pieces to fit in between. All joinery would wait until the parts of the model are all created as components. The top would go on last and be modeled in place to ensure it is centered.
It does vary from user to user. The key thing is to use a logical and methodical work flow.
Since those shelves are fixed, I would have most likely used loose tenons (Dominoes) between the shelves and the legs. Nothing against pocket screws but I usually prefer other joinery methods when I can do them.
FWIW, most likely the only plywood I would specify in a project like this would probably be the side panels, back panel, and the drawer bottoms. If I had to do plywood for the shelves and vertical dividers, they would get hardwood edging, instead of just a veneer.