Thank you.
How much torque do you think it’ll take 
Good question. I inadvertantly printed the parts with 25% fill. Might take a fair amount although I wouldn’t want to put it in a Model T.
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If you want function of the threaded parts rather than imitating the threads found on metal parts perhaps another thread profile would be an alternative.
I would imagine trapezoidal threads or Edison (semicircular tooth profile) could be printed very well and at least the Edison profile is supposed to tolerate greater misalignment when attaching and wider tolerances when manufacturing.
Thanks for your input but I haven’t had any problems with any of the screw threads I’ve 3D printed. They’ve all worked just fine the way I’ve modeled them. The screw threads in the parts I’ve shown are modeled to the specifcations provided in the information I was working from. No need to modify them to make usable threads in the 3D prints.
The model for a Ming-style table built by John Cameron for plans to go with an article in the current issue of Fine Woodworking Magazine.
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Dave, you are my final hope.
The one area of SU that I am worst at is contouring surfaces. I need to shape some tractor seats for the current gun turret project. Can you give me some of your sage advice?
Here’s the file. I drew the profile over a vertical drawing that was scaled. I then enlarged 100 times just to make SU more comfortable.
I’m familiar with using “cutters” to create negative space, but am not even sure of how to form the cutter.
5IP Tractor Seat.skp (2.5 MB)
I’ll take a look shortly.
Are you still using 2017 Make as indicated in your forum profile?
SU 2023 Studio. I put in the update last week and now V-ray won’t work and I have a Support ticket in Trible t figure out why. But that’s a topic for another post.
I would suggest, since the seat is symmetrical, that you model half of it. Probably SubD would be a good option for this although I haven’t used it enough to be able to instruct someone else. Extensions like Soap Skin & Bubble could be used to skin the surface after you create the exterior shape. Or Curviloft or TIG’s Extrude Tools. When I get some time I’ll try to make an example for you.
This is the first model I came across in my collection where I did that sort of thing.
Of course in the case of your tractor seat I would only create the top surface. Then use Joint Push/Pull to add the thickness.
I’ll look into SubD. I have Curviloft, although have used it very infrequently. Trouble with these oddball parts is that I don’t do them enough to remember them.
Not a sleepless night thing although due to the settings I chose the 3D printer kind of kept me awake. Luckily no birdsnests or other failures.
These are hooks to fit on a wheelchair lift in a van.
The lift was designed to pick the chair up by a 3/4 in. dia. aluminum tube on the backrest (red arrow) however that tube isn’t designed to have the weight of the chair hanging from it all the time especially on bumpy roads. The hooks support the chair by the axle tube (green arrow).
Hooks installed.
I need to find some black or gray foam to replace the temporary white weatherstripping and I need to replace some of the screws.
Handy to have SketchUp and a 3D printer. Or maybe SketchUp and a 3D printer are just enabling for an over-engineer. 
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Do you think the hooks will stand up to those bumpy roads?
What filament did you use?
Over-engineering is the only right way to do it!
Nice work by the way!!
Good question. I don’t know. If they fail the OEM hook is still present. Easy enough to revise the design if needed.
Just PLA because I have a lot of it. I used 75 or 80% fill, though.
I call it brick outhouse engineering.
Thank you.
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Doodling while waiting for my coffee to brew.
Timing belt pulley
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You either draw fast or your coffee takes really long to brew 
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Lots of repetition. I just cleaned the coffee maker, too.
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Rendered in Vray.
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