Sleepless Night

Couldn’t sleep so doodling instead.

Connecting rod end for a steam engine from about 1903.

And a unversal joint from about 1920.

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Nice Style. I would be interested in seeing the hidden geometry of the ‘Weld’ on the U-Joint to Shaft.

Thanks. Does this work?

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Thanks for being such a sage. This one gnaw at me because I forgot about Fredos round corner. Is that what you used for the Weld? Also is the final component/group a solid? Considering who modeled this, I’m pretty sure its a component and it’s solid!

Thank you!

I used Curviloft to create the fillet between the shaft and the yoke. The cross section curve is different from the top to the side so Round Corner won’t cut it.

Yes. Every part is a solid component. :wink:

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More machine parts. Ball bearing assembly from around 1905.

Outer races are 2-7/8 in. dia. with 16 threads per inch. The stud is 3/8 in. with 18 TPI.

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Most excellent! Love how these early machine parts had a certain simple elegance about them.

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Thank you! I really enjoy how those old machine parts look.

I’d like to find some references for Victorian steam engines and such to model.

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Curvi loft for fillets eh? Did not lnow you could do that with curvi loft… actually only used curvi loft once haha

Yes. There’s a lot of things you can do with Curviloft.

Added a shaft to the bearing with a hex nut to retain it.

Now I’d better quit ignoring the fallen leaves and try to get them cleaned up before it snows.

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i need to learn this tool. time to open sketchup and see what it does.

Yes. It is past time.

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The result of another sleepless night. Can’t even blame it on the anchovy, onion, and jalapeno pizza I had before going to bed because I didn’t have one. :roll_eyes:

Shafter hanger from before 1905.

If you click on the images, you can follow them to their full size versions.

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And another cool bit ! What’s the diameter for the shaft ? Just curious.

Thank you.

The openings in the ends are 1.125 in. dia. The inside is a larger diameter which I expect is for babbit but the babbit wasn’t detailed. There’s no large hole in the top into which to pour the molten metal which makes me wonder if it would be poured in one end and then bored out for the shaft and for the holes from the oil reservoir on the top.

FWIW there’s supposed to be a set screw in the boss on the hanger bracket. I was going to put it in but I didn’t want to bugger up the threads on the yoke. :smiley:

Looking at it would have guessed the shaft to be bigger… Interesting about how you would pour the babbitt. :+1:

I suppose this was for a countershaft and not the main shaft in the shop. I imagine it was intended for a rather short shaft anyway. Replacing the shaft thingummy would require disassembly. I’ve seen some of these where that piece is in two parts so it can be put on or removed without having access to the end of the shaft.

As for the babbit I would have expected a larger hole in the middle of the oil reservoir where the babbit could be poured in with a piece of the shaft in place and clay dams to prevent it from running out the ends.

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A nut for 1-1/4 in. straight pipe thread. Threads modeled from specifications. The rest of the nut was pulled out of my, err, hat. :smiley:

Of course it’s 3D printable, too.

It would be much cheaper to go to the hardware store and buy one, though.

Here’s the mesh for those who are interested.

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