Please Show Me how to fix my model for printing - urgent :)

Hey guys,

I’ve been working on this part all night and I have to finish it for tomorrow - I have a few surfaces inside that I can’t seem to deal with. I have tried solid solver but it makes my computer crash :frowning:

RockerBody 3d printed Ready For Print.skp (142.5 KB)

It would have been nice if you had been a bit more specific. What surfaces? Why can’t you deal with them? You say you want to “fix” your model. What is it you think needs fixing?

As it happens, there are a bunch of things wrong with it, mostly attributable to careless modeling.

For one thing, you saved the model upside down; that is, with the solid Blue axis down and the dotted Blue axis up.

For another, you can’t have multiple or nested groups or components in a solid. The Group or component recognized as solid is only one level deep and contains all the geometry making up the solid.

For another, most of your faces are inverted. All the faces you see should be white, all the blue faces should face the interior of the solid.

The construction is not symmetrical where it obviously was intended to be. You should have modeled half and flipped it for the other half.

Most of your tangents are not smooth.

Please be more specific about what you need help with.


All four components show to be solids from Entity Info and if you are referring to the vertical lines in the rounded corners of the “lower plate” Soften Edges removes them and its faces were inside out. Orienting them with the other three components were the two things I noticed and all four show as Solid Components.

Just seen this after another look, two lines to no where on the center support pivot… and see second screenshot

See if this diagram helps. It’s really not that bad. You just need to refine some techniques.


1 Like

Question if I may: Does the Outer Shell tool allow it to be printed as a complete assembly. Basically exploding all four components and re-combining as a single group/component if you did not have Solid Tools?? Where as without it you would incense have four individual components needing to be printed to create a complete assembly.

The outer shell removes the interior faces that would be left behind using the explode/group method. It also simply saves a few steps. Correct me if I’m wrong but I was thinking outer shell was available in the Make version.
Try this.


Thanks for your help guys - wow shep that is an amazing diagram you whipped up there!
I ended up spending 3 hrs trying to get it all working and i ended up working out that all the components were in fact solid but i just had to combine them manually - (still had a few issues).
So are you saying shep that i should have drawn it that way to being with? How did you delete the holes… then cut them in again?
Obviously I am quite new lol - my 3d printer decided to have a jam (not the musical kind :() and im not able to print it tonight anyway :frowning:

Not necessarily. If a part is symmetrical, you draw half, copy, flip and combine as @Gully_Foyle suggests above.
The main thing is to model with care, paying close attention to inference cues.

As for removing the holes I set the camera to parallel projection and switched to x-ray mode. Then from a top view selected the hole geometry and deleted.


Yes it is…

… and my question was more in line if it would be able to print the assemble as a collection of four solid entities. Or must it be exploded and re-grouped as one entity or running the Outer Shell. For I am just getting info on 3D printing and still have more to learn with SU first, before tackling more projects. …Peace…

It depends on the printer software. Some will happily accept several solids and print them as one. Others need a fully manifold solid.

1 Like

I’m not the 3D printer expert, for sure but I think it also depends on what you are printing. For example if you are making a six inch cube, you wouldn’t need it to be solid. You may want it to have a wall thickness to save material.
The outer shell may not be the tool of choice for a shape like this.


1 Like


davet42: A number of good recommendations herein, but before spending too much time the model has a number of small dimension errors which may give you down stream problems. Suggest you correct while it is easy with the way you have the model structured with components. I question the use of the small rectangular blocks which I guess is for stiffening but does not look like they are properly sized :confounded:
All the components can be created using the pus pull tool, so it should be relative quick to make them 2d , do correction and then push pull to correct thickness. Once that is done then conversion to solid model fro printing should go relatively quickly.
Here is some of dimension I measured from you posted model above;

Wow you guys are amazing with your diagrams and videos!
The little blocks are to fit in these triangular pieces to hold rollers on the top there, so the squares will have little squares to push into them. All in effort to produce a model that doesnt need support for printing.
I find it hard to keep a model all symmetrial. Sometimes ill have thought ive been really careful ill measure something and it has the approximate symbal before the measurement… and i thought the whole point of cad is the accuracy lol.
I feel as though i should be using the copy and paste tool alot more to make drawing my models so much faster and more accurate… but when i go to paste things it doesnt seem like a very accurate experience. I think i need to do a sketchup course - sit down with someone who knows it… but until then ill just struggle along - its getting slightly easier.
Thanks alot for your help!

What you see on the screen is display precision and does not affect the program precision. I recommend not using fractional display precision, but decimal and you will not usually encounter the tilida symbol.
I tried to quickly correct your model last night but fell on my sword => model error somewhere I did not find before snooze time :sleeping:

If you get the tild you haven’t set your Units correctly.
Go to Window/ Model Info/ units and adjust the units and precision settings there. Also the length snapping usually works better off for small work.
You can then save as template for later use.

A fraction is exact , but conversion to decimal is not so I guess we expect trail and error until one get some thing? The lower the fractional precision the more that tilda will show up so one has to keep increasing precision. Of course one then gets to point the whole reason for using fraction become mute.

The model is metric so I understand not why you speak of fractions. But I’m going for somewhere between 1/3 and 1/4 of a gross of winks now.

Here is your model as solid, almost, I did not know what the correct dimension are so did not change them, deleted the small rectangles, and offset the out side rockers 2mm, think them on the edge was causing problems. Even netfabb would not fix for thatrocker body_mac1A.skp (159.7 KB) case