Please help on how to achieve photomatch. I’ve been working on this for hours but can’t seem to get it right. How am i supposed to move around to make the model match with the image?
Without something in the photo that is rectilinear like a building that you can use as a reference, there’s not much that Match Photo can do. If you have meta data from your photograph that at least predetermines the focal length/angle of view, that can help doing a trial and error approach. To effectively match the focal length, however, you need to know about the bug regarding focal length (see this post).
thanks! this is the original photo. There are modeled signage for reference and i’m trying to match it with those and with what little can be seen on the house in the background
I can’t make anything out through the trees. One key factor is to get the horizon lines to at least agree. If you don’t your brain knows something’s wrong even if you don’t quite know why.
The model has the yellow horizon line, and an educated guess for the photo is the blue one. The left vanishing point looks way off.
You should´ve started with the photo match before modeling, now its almost impossible to match the axis and horizon line to your model.
It could be easier to make the photomatch on an empty file, then import your model and move it untill you can make it match, I would make a cube from the photomatch scene like a reference to place the model more easily, the biggest problem is that the photo doesn´t have enough references to place correctly the axis and horizon, you´ll have to probably edit the photo a few times until you get as close as possible to the reality.
In the example of this post, I at least had a barn as a reference, but it was small in the photo and not necessarily plumb, level and square. First attempt wasn’t very good, but I was able to tweak it repeatedly until it got better. To fudge a Match Photo, you can grab the horizon line itself and drag it around (that was the first big improvement in that example). You can also grab the vanishing points and move them around too.
hello, i didnt make the model and was only tasked to do the photomatch 
I took me 2 minutes to do that, I placed the red(x) axis by eye, since there´s not a clear reference. You can also use the measurement tape tool to scale the cube if you know the approximated dimensions of the place.
thank you. unfortunately i dont have much to begin with
This suggestion is a bit more advanced. Can you get a panoramic hdr of the place? if you could, you can use V-ray or Blender to make it a dome, place the model inside of it and play with the settings of the dome, it will also look better than if its photomatched.
I’ve often wondered if an orange box could be set up in a scene to accurately get the perspective and scale - but could be photoshopped out of the image later - would be useful. Do you all have thoughts?
1 Like
you mean on location ?
yeah, it works. I’ve used containers (or algecos, the container-sized offices they bring on building sites)
you could bring your own cube, the bigger the better, to place at a very specific location and rotation in order to set all your photos.
a cube made of piping / railing might be a better solution, easier to dismantle and less stuff to get rid of in the photos.
2 Likes
I’ve also pondered using one of those multi-axis laser levels in some way. You would need something for the beams to be visible like fog or dust or projected onto something.
A box/ cube with a specific dimension like 1m x 1m x 1m to more accurately determine the scale. When I take photos for a future photo match, I measure a door, window or column to help determine scale.
3 Likes
Well, when you do have something to measure and refer to, I argue to (as much as possible) “Interpolate, don’t extrapolate.” If there’s a wall with a door in it, don’t measure the door and figure out the size of the wall (that’s extrapolating), measure the wall and figure out the size of the door (that’s interpolating).