Why Extra Space Around Component?

What I drew was the profile, so to speak. It was the side so I could see how to make it bend. I couldn’t figure out how to make the bends of a rectangular piece.

I’ll have to see if I can figure out that reverse face thing and fix it; otherwise, I’ll just have to live with it. It looks okay on the screen.

I have sooo much to learn. Once the design is done, I have to figure out how that translates to the mahogany and cherry wood I need to have milled. And I don’t know how to print the plans. Whenever I’ve taken things into Layout, they end up weird. So I usually move them around in Sketchup and do screenshots to print.

Lots to learn. Lots to learn.

Might I suggest that you start model something less complex. Like several boxes and/or cylinders near one another. Make each one either a group or component individually. This isolates the Them from one another so they can be moved around easily.

The key thing is to build your models as separate parts (groups and components) such that you build in less complicated parts, then join them together as a new complete object (group or component)

The SU Tutorials on their youtube channel are very helpful. I also have a pdf book on SU for 9.95
Some 350 illustrated pages.
Chris

I appreciate the advice. But I’m building the models I need. My intention is to build this box, and as soon as I can get everything together to do so, and the rain stops.

I’ve watched videos the Sketchup site. Many of them seem to be architectural, but I watched anyway. Nothing showed me how to make things like the hardware for this cabinet, though.

Got some good pointers here today in this thread, though, and I’m going to try them out.

I’m almost done this model, and it will work for its purpose, which is to allow me to know what wood I need (already bought all the hardware) and how it’s going to go together.

Thanks for your input! I really appreciate it, even if I’m stubbornly sticking to this particular project. But, as I said, it’s because I need to build this, and soon.

I hope to finish the model today, and order the wood tomorrow.

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As you were told, if you change to monochrome the reversed faces by default have a gray bluish color, you can either use a plugin to correct it like solid inspector fix 101, cleanup etc. Or right click on the reversed face and select invert face, and right click on a well oriented face that is part of the geometry and select orient faces.

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Suggest you alter you back face color in the style settings to make it HOT PINK, you won’t miss them then… :slight_smile:

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I reccomend you this free online course by @JustinTSE. It’s very complete.

Thanks! That’s an excellent idea! Pink it is!

Thank you! I’ll be watching that today!

I use a green color for the back face color in my default style. It’s a color that I wouldn’t normally use in my modeling and although not as jarring as magenta it gets the point across.

If you get the time these are super helpful getting a workflow started, after you learn the tools and fundimentals. Seeing the tools working and getting a solid explaination of what it is doing, or not going to do. Very much worth your time … thanks Dave !!
Peace …

https://www.finewoodworking.com/tag/sketchup

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Dang! Just learned another new thing! The “Dave Method” is great! I wondered why I had that little hole on top of spheres. Now I know why and more importantly, how to get rid of them. When I enlarge to deal with the “small segment” problem. I’ve been enlarging the native object and then having to shrink it again. Now I will use the components Dave Method and solve two problems at once.

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