A few quests from a new user of sketchup

First about me so you know. Im semi retired 50+ computer geek. I have had a love of architecture since highschool. I am pretty good with Visio and very good with pencil and my table but never tried 3d software before.

machine- 6core over clocked to 3.8 amd with liquidcool. gtx 970 4gig card and samsung 39" ultra monitor running 3840 x 2160.

Ok now with approx 10 hours of drawing I did the tutorials and about the tools I felt good to draw something fun.
So I started drawing a tiny house i built for a person earlier this year cause I liked it.
I have drawn the pillars the 2x8" frame and plywood. I now have all the wood structure drawn and I am putting the siding on it. However I am seeing very little imperfections…

My problem is where I put the 2x4 frame in from the bottom they are not perfectly lined up… SO when I put the sheet of plywood I drawn up on it it kind of bleeds through…

I know im not real good so here are my list of questions…

can I make things snap to… IE- if i draw 2 2x4’s one on floor one up and they snap to so I dont have to zoom in when I cant see it hung over 1/32" either way???

can I un component or un group someting???

if I want to put something over something drawn can how do I make so I dont mess up the others below???

I know hide and unhide so I can work inside … Love it… can I make something inviso so I can see through it and still see the lines??

zone… OK i rool my wheel for 2 minutes some times… any ways to fast zome way out??? I swear when im inside the 24’x32’ house and want to zoom and see the whole item I wear my wheel out…??? LOL

ok this might be wierd but lets say i have a 2x4 drawn 20’ long. any way to click on it and shrink it to 10’ long by typing it in … now guessing???

Lastly anyone know a set of tutorials I could learn from in a row… I did the 4 and love them… …
I know I find tons out their but would love to find something that scales up and works on the other… Not just jumping around…

Thanks for the help folks… and BTW… love the program this is fun… Now maybe ill get a 3d printer to goof with LOL…
thnx Grumpii or Mark…

Why not share the SketchUp model you have drawn so far? So long as it is less than about 3MB you can upload it directly here. To upload it, click on the 7th icon from the left above where you type your post, [Choose] the file, then click [Upload].

Then we can see where there might be things we can better advise you about.

Are you making each piece of 2x4 a separate component, and copying from one to another the same length? If not, you should do so.

My problem is where I put the 2x4 frame in from the bottom they are not perfectly lined up.

Have you worked out yet how inferencing works? When you are drawing a Rectangle for the end of a 2x4, or moving a previously drawn one into place, first pick (click on with the mouse) one corner, and notice the ‘endpoint’ inference tooltip there. Then when you use the Move tool (shortcut M) to place it, wait until the mouse shows ‘on Edge’, ‘Endpoint’ or ‘Midpoint’ on the bottom frame piece, to get it exactly aligned on the edge, end, or midpoint.

can I un component or un group something?

You can Explode (unmake) a component or group (Right click on it then choose Explode) - but why would you need to? Double click it to change it by editing, you don’t need to Explode it to do that.

I know hide and unhide so I can work inside …

When your drawing is simple, that can work well. But as it gets more complex, you would do better to assign Layers to different parts of your house (e.g, floor, south wall, first floor ceiling, roof etc.) then turn the Layer visibility off in the Layers window instead of hiding its elements. However, ALWAYS draw your raw geometry on Layer0, make parts into components or groups, then assign Layers to them.

if I want to put something over something drawn can how do I make so I don’t mess up the others below?

Make each part of the house (each 2x4 framing piece, for example, or the floor or foundations) into a component immediately after you have drawn it (triple click on any line or face to select everything connected to what you have just drawn) then use the standard shortcut G to make it into a component and give a meaningful name. Components and Groups separate geometry. Layers ONLY control visibility - they don NOT separate drawing elements to stop them ‘sticking’ to each other.

can I make something inviso so I can see through it and still see the lines??

Choose menu View/Face Style/X-ray to make faces semitransparent, so you see through them.

any ways to fast zoom way out?

If you haven’t already done so, make the Large Tool Set visible - View/Toolbars/Large Tool Set. You can turn off the Getting Started toolbar at the same time.

To quickly view all of your drawing, click on the Zoom Extents tool near the bottom left of the Large Tool Set or choose it from the menu Camera/Zoom Extents.

Note that you will zoom in and out with the mouse wheel MUCH quicker if you have the mouse pointer over some element of your drawing, not on a blank background.

say i have a 2x4 drawn 20’ long. any way to click on it and shrink it to 10’ long by typing it in

Open the 2x4 for editing by double clicking on it. Select one end face. Use the PushPull tool to start it moving to shorten it. Then just type 10’ to shorten it BY ten feet (which will make a 20’ 2x4 into 10’ long). To make a 20’ one into 14’, start the PushPull movement, then type 6’ (20’ - 14’) and so on.

Can’t help your further on other tutorials - maybe someone else can.

Happy drawing!

housetry.skp (2.3 MB)

John, Thanks … here is my drawing. Please be kind and remember im new to this.
this my first drawing not in the tutorial…

im gona print your reply and go over your answers…
thanks again…

On the ungroup thing…
ill give you reason why

I made a window. If I like it I want to copy it but if I shrink it it shrinks all the rest also…
Know what I mean…
thanks again…

That’s not a great reason for ungrouping the window. Just select the component you want to modify independently of the others, right click on it and choose Make Unique. This will break its relationship with the rest.

thnx …
DIdnt know that option honest… :slight_smile: its added to my quick cheat sheet… hehehe

For someone with only a few hours using the program, I think you have made impressive progress! All the timber framing I can see has been made of components, which is great. You could name them more meaningfully, so you can see more easily in the Outliner window which is which, but that can be edited later.

On the ungroup thing… If I like it I want to copy it but if I shrink it it shrinks all the rest also

To use one window as the basis for another of a different size, first make it unique - R-click, Make Unique. If it has ‘nested’ components that will be a different size in the new window, make each of them unique also. You have some nice-looking windows in your drawing, but they aren’t made OF components, they aren’t made INTO components, and they aren’t SOLID, just open channels for the frame. You should make them all of these.

For example, I’ve converted one into a set of solid component pieces. Here:
Window frame.skp (35.8 KB)
I did this by first making your window into a component (to isolate it from my drawing over it). Then I drew over it with the Rectangle tool, one element at a time, and pushpulled each to the right thickness. Then made each element as I drew it into a component. Then selected all of my elements, and made the whole into a top level component.

I haven’t added materials, nor window panes, but you should be able to do that yourself.

And your floor should be made into components too - it is ALL ‘loose geometry’ at the moment. Make one floor panel into a component, then copy it where you need others.

All I have time for tonight - it’s 1am here in the UK, and I’m off to bed. To be continued tomorrow evening, if it helps! Mostly busy during the day, but might have a little time in the afternoon.

its midnight and im hooked but work in morn… LOL… your infop helped alot…thanks… Now im makeing everything i make a comp, and before i make something I group the hole house and then explode when done…
thanks much… here is my work so far… doing better I think…

housetry2.zip (1.92 MB)

Official SketchUp Video Tutorials — SketchUp YouTube

SketchUp Skill Builder Video Tutorials — SketchUp YouTube

SketchUp For Dummies — Aidan Chopra YouTube

THANK you Geo… You are awesome…
Im at work but tonight im going to do a ton of them … :slight_smile:

Just taken a quick look at housetry2.skp. Looks well, but in terms of the model structure, still needs a good deal of work before you take it much further.

You’ve started to use some components, but there is still too much ‘wholly loose’ geometry in the floor. And the front (dark brown) frames, although made up of six components, are not made up of of subcomponents but should be - normally I would make each separate piece of timber into a component, and I think your should do so here, too. And I would guess that a better subdivision into components would involve having trusses for the A-shaped top, spanning the whole house, with separate uprights at the ends, rather than than the half-frame component as you currently have. Make the component structure and hierarchy of nesting them match the physical construction and assembly, as a good rule of thumb to start with.

Is the ‘kink’ in the roof slope beams deliberate? I don’t know very much about timber framed housing, but I assume that those beams (?rafters?) should be one piece of timber, and straight.

Was it in these frames that you earlier described having trouble getting them lined up exactly? It’s apparent in that the short vertical doesn’t align properly on the edge of the cross beam. You HAVE made that a component, which means it’s easy to move it up into alignment. If that were loose geometry too, like the rest of the beams in the half-frame component, you would have more trouble fixing it. And the angle at the top of the beam doesn’t exactly match the slope of the rafter. You can fix that by editing the component, select the top line at the apex, move it on the blue axis (tap up-arrow, or hold Shift key while moving on the blue axis) to match the slope of the rafter.

Similarly, all the siding seems to be loose geometry, connected to the floor - when I triple click on any floor panel, all of the floor and siding gets highlighted, which means it is all connected. Editing any part of it in future will be a nightmare - move one line, and all the connected lines will want to move too! That’s why using components is so important.

I have a small wooden framed and plank clad woodworking workshop in my garden, about 14’L x 10’W x 8’H to the ridge. When I first drew it in Sketchup i made exactly the same mistakes - I drew all of the 2x2 framing as connected loose geometry. Only later, when I learned more about how to use SU to better effect, did I redraw it as separate pieces of timber, each a component.

Like this:
Whole workshop - with Makita saw.skp (1.9 MB)

You’ll see in this that I too used unnamed Groups for the framing, where I would now use components!

What I had to do, and what I think you should do, is first to open the frame component for editing (double click it), then select (left to right, so you select only what is wholly inside the selection box) each separate piece of timber in the frame component. Press shortcut G (only in lower case - g) to Make Component, and ensure that Replace selected with component is checked. Give the component a name. That way, the selection is turned into a solid component (if it was drawn as a fully enclosed shape in the first place).

I’ve had one quick go at it - here:
A-frame.skp (32.9 KB)

However, when I drew it, I found out a couple of things. First, the sloping rafter isn’t all in the same plane as the cross beam and upright - they don’t quite join up properly.

And second, they aren’t quite the right size. You have drawn them 6" wide x 4" thick. Standard US timber called 6x4 is a finished size of about 5-1/2" x 3 1/2."

I haven’t redrawn them to correct this. You would probably find it easiest to start over. and recreate the framing from scratch, at the correct size, if this is to accurately represent a real house.

If that doesn’t work easily, then use the Rectangle or Line tools, and PushPull, to draw the piece of timber again, using the existing frame component to pick the Endpoints, when it is closed (not open for editing).

You have already added good textures, but you will find it easier to draw without the textures showing. Turn them off using menu View/Face Style/Monochrome.

You’ve gone quite a good way to isolate the physical elements in the foundation piers, but have used Groups where I would have used components. I’d make one component called ‘breeze block’ 8x8x16" (and add mortar lines if you think that would be relevant), and assemble four of them to make the top half of a pier. You have a Group doing the same thing - convert it to a component, then replace all the individual Groups with copies of the component.

And your large ?concrete foundation below the blocks includes one ‘breeze block’ - remove that from the bottom large piece, and make THAT too a separate component.

Replace the loose geometry of floor panels with a pushpulled rectangle of the right size and thickness - 8’x4’x3/4"?

And your joists aren’t joining properly at the ends - they cut through the cross members instead of butting on to them.

Probably other things as well could be improved, but it will come along well if you get into the habit of making one component for each physically distinct element of the building. As drawing complexity grows, using multiple components instead of groups, and leaving NO loose geometry except while you are drawing a component, will be good habits to get into. Repeated components also usually reduce the file size of the drawing.

Great start, I still think, for this stage of your experience with SU.

You know John you are awesome… I want to say thank you for all your help and your instructions…

I agree with you that on this drawing has alot of issues from my beginning. Im getting better as you told me a better way to do things. I see the problems you said however this drawing is just for fun. I built this house you see for a woman late this past winter.
Fixing some of that stuff is not worth it. I will start over on what you are teaching me on my next build…

I just got home so need food and shower …:slight_smile: but I printed out your reply and will go ever it all…

On the roof. No it is a suppose to be that way. It is a two pitched roof. It goes in one pitch to the curtain wall then higher pitch for the living space. In real life I did nailing plates their at each connections with lag bolts on each side.
In the larger timbers I hid the lag bolts and counter sunk them , then covered them with plugs

I did fubar the flooring size it is suppose to be 3/4" LOL… good catch …

the 4"x6" timber is correct… LOL… when I made the house I made them out of logs from her property I built the house on. I have a portable saw mill and it is much easier to be exact with " than at the 1/2 so I made them that size… My mill is decent but it is manual for setting with and easier to see the "…

OK now 3 quick questions…
how when I click on an item can i display the measurements … Ie- If I clicked on a piece of plywood on the floor can I open a window or turn on an option that will say its is 4’x8’x1/2" also how do I display the name of something … a component… is their a window have open to see that 2???

2- I downloaded a JPG file that I want as a new texture… mind explaining how to make it one?

lastly… The main reason I wanted to learn this is im a GEEK… LOL…
I want to get a 3d printer and make 28 mill =6’ scale midevil house’s. Any first hand knowledge on 3d printers…
want one to print 6"x6"x6" minimum…
I can do my research, but figured you know alot maybee, lol…

And again than you very very much for looking at it.
I will finish this one this week and this weekend Ill start on my new project…
A cabin I want to build this fall up in mountains approx 300 miles from me. I promise that one will be alot better with all you have taught me so far :)…

peace… and respect

Quick response to your immediate q’s.

  1. how when I click on an item can i display the measurements?

You can open the Entity Info window - either R-click on some object (edge, face, text. group or component etc) and choose Entity Info, or just go to Window/Entity Info and leave the window open all the time (most experienced SU modellers, I read, do that and I know I do). That will give you some information, but not necessarily what you want. You can also use this window to rename a component. So if, for example, you have a floor panel 8’ x 4’ x 3/4" you can put those dimensions in either the Component Definition or the Name (though it will save some possible complications in saving components to an external file if you use ft and in abbreviations rather than the foot mark ’ or the inch mark "). The definition applies to ALL instances of the same component. The Name can be separately applied to each individual instance.

  1. Making a JPG image into a texture

Rather than try to answer this directly, I suggest you search either via Google or on this forum for ‘sketchup use image as texture’ and/or ‘make texture image into material’.

  1. re 3D printers

I have one bought about 3 years ago - a Velleman K8200 printer. It will really only print in PLA not ABS, which is a simple material but it doesn’t age well and goes rather brittle. However, it’s quite time consuming to build from a kit, and to set up and keep tuned. The GEEK in you may enjoy that, and I did too, so it was a good first printer for experiment. The price has halved too, since I bought it - from £799 to £399 or thereabouts. One thing that influenced me was that it has a relatively large build volume - from memory, about 10x10x10 inches.

But the world of 3D printing has moved on since then, and I’d start again with Google and reviews to see what to get now.

Depends too on what you want the output for. I bought mine initially just to see how things worked, and with the thought that I could use it to make model scenery (one of the things I do most with SketchUp is design or make constructible other people’s set designs for our local amateur theatre, the Abbey Theatre, St Albans - www.abbeytheatre.org.uk. To see a few of the sets I designed, search http://3Dwarehouse.sketchup.com for ‘Abbey Theatre’ - most of the hits are my set designs.)

I have printed a few bits of model scenery including Steeldeck rostra, and helped a friend make scenic items for a model railway, but my wife’s poor health in most of the time since I bought it means I haven’t had time to use it much - and not at all for nearly two years now.

Choose between several competing technologies at the bottom end of the market. Most are filament deposition - ejecting a molten plastic filament 0.3-0.5mm diameter in successive layers using a print head moving in two dimensions, with the platen on which the plastic is deposited moving up a fraction of a mm for each layer.

Another type uses a laser beam or beams to solidify material from solution, again building up in layers. Prices start higher than for filament deposition.

If you go for filament deposition (as most people do to get started, I think) make sure it will print in ABS plastic by default. A few also print in nylon, I think. Both are tougher and more durable than PLA

All I’ve time for tonight - want to get to bed earlier tonight than last!

Night and thnx… Awesome…
got it

Well John I told you I would show you when I got a bit done. OK I learned alot from your advice. I hope it shows. I know it is just starting…
well you have a good night… Im beat. :slight_smile:

opps no file :frowning: HOUSE20X20.skp (2.8 MB)

Looking good!

Pretty much everything I have looked at is a component, with meaningful name. Great stuff.

And you’ve used Layers to allow viewing into the house by turning off visibility wall by wall. Also good.

There’s only one serious problem, which is pretty easy to fix.

You have assigned layers to raw geometry - this is a no-no. With extremely rare exceptions which don’t apply here, ALWAYS leave the default layer (the checked radio button in the Layers window) at Layer0, and draw ALL raw geometry on Layer0.

Then assign visibility layers to components and groups (and later on, text, dimensions, and other objects, etc.) but NOT to raw geometry.

To fix this, you could either use a plugin, or since the drawing isn’t too complex, just open each component in turn, triple click to select All, then change its layer to Layer0 in the Entity Info window.

The other refinement you could make is to group or make components of entire parts of the building - e.g., roof (or half of the roof), each wall, the chimney, etc. Since there probably won’t be multiples of them, a named Group could be used, though I generally now use components even for non-repeated elements - it’s a matter more of style than substance which you use in this circumstance.

Looking good!

2 other ways to zoom out.

  1. Hit SHIFT Z to zoom extents.
  2. Make a HOME scene that views the overall model and click on that scene tab to get out to a known place. This is my preferred method as there is a great deal more control than ZOOM EXTENTS.

Thanks much… Ive been swamped with work :frowning: so havnt had much time to goof…
But I will defiantly try this…

love the help guys… thnx

That’s really great for a ‘first’ SketchUp model… Isn’t it just plain old FUN to model stuff in SketchUp?! I think you’ll find the more you do the funner it gets…