That may be another symptom of the model being not quite cleanly drawn.
Is moving the whole of the bottom face(s) and edges not the right thing to do, as in my second suggestion?
If it isn’t, then you might consider adapting the model into subcomponents - a top outer cylinder, middle cylinder, and bottom outer cylinder; then one or more subcomponents for the indented sections of the inner top and bottom segments.
And maybe work at an even larger scale - x 100 or x1000 even (use metres for mm)
for example, these pieces (highlighted)
should be components, to ensure they all stay the same, keeping their geometry separate from the rest. It’s really hard to model cleanly if all your geometry is connected together.
I see that you have used the 3Dprinting template. It’s largely useless, and just bloats your file size by over 1MB. Use Purge Unused to get rid of it. Just know the maximum print volume of your 3D printer, and stay within it, or draw a simple box to represent it.
Next time, start with a simple Construction Documentation template in metres, and scale the result down x 1000 before printing, to get mm instead. Or use cm, and scale down by x10.
If you are going to print this object, have you allowed offsets for the thickness of your extruded filament? I’ve found on my printer that the print head centreline follows the model edges, so it fills in on either side by half the nozzle diameter - in my case, that’s a diameter of 0.5mm, and offset 0.25 mm.
So if you want an exact finished size, you need to offset inwards by 0.25mm (or whatever half of your nozzle size is) for any outer or inner edges, and outwards by 0.25mm round openings to get the solid you want.
And a small extra offset to get the kind of fit you want, from loose drop in to tight press fit. I found that adding an additional 0.05 to 0.1mm from nominal dimension of holes gave me a drop-in fit, and reducing the opening by the same amount led to gentle or hard push fit.
I also found that any small extrusions less than the nozzle width just don’t get sliced, and hence don’t print.
PS. One last observation. You don’t need 96 segment circles for the small holes - all that does is overload SU with edges too small to be seen in the finished print. Try 12 or 16 at most for those small holes.
96 segments is probably a bit more than you really need even for the 70mm diam outer circles too, but not excessively so to get a smooth print. 48 would probably do just as well.
There’s another thread of the forum giving a method of calculating how many segments make sense, depending on the maximum difference you want to tolerate between a true circle and a segmented one, and the size of the circle. I can’t find it at the moment, though I know I have seen it here.