Can’t save shearwall presets.
This error appears in Ruby Console when you click Save > (enter shearwall name) > Save SW Preset:
Error: #<NoMethodError: undefined method `save_door_preset' for #<Medeek_Engineering_Inc_Extensions::MedeekWallPlugin::Wall::SwPositionTool::PositionToolPoint:0x000001cd43c69d48>
Did you mean? save_sw_preset>
c:/users/matt/appdata/roaming/sketchup/sketchup 2021/sketchup/plugins/medeek_wall_ext/medeek_sw_wall.rbe:3639:in `block in get_sw_parameters'
The only thing I can think of is I did edit the medeek_lumber material luminosity, just to give it more contrast in my model. Not sure if that would affect anything. I didn’t change the name or anything like that.
EDIT: OH! Actually, I think I was also playing around with the opacity of the medeek_sw_osb material. That must be the problem. Not sure how to fix…
If I restart SketchUp and start with a new file, I don’t get the error.
Sorry @medeek , more questions… btw, I’ve browsed the release notes but couldn’t find an answer…
I’m confused as to why I have the ability to use a 3 1/2" x 3 1/2" PSL if I want to manually insert one into a wall using the column tool, but I’m not able to choose one as the end post in a shearwall. Shouldn’t the shearwall post dropdown have the same column options shown in the settings?
Strange, I just accidentally discovered if I set the start of the wall to have 4 corner studs too, then 4 corner studs get generated at both the start and end. But if I set the start back to having 1 corner stud, then end of the wall won’t generate the 4 corner studs. Maybe there’s an error in the code that is causing the end wall to look at the start wall for the corner quantity?
Found a framing technique that looks interesting from a building envelope perspective. The interior walls have an air gap offset from the exterior walls. The gap is adjusted to accommodate the combined thickness of dry wall and air barrier membrane (say 3/4" for 5/8" dry wall). The dry wall (4’x8’) can be slipped horizontally into the gap. The advantages are:
Only question I have is how the interior walls are secured. I am guessing a truss would be used to bridge the upper gap and anchor bolts on the bottom plate of the interior walls. The other question would be how to use the Wall extension to achieve this configuration (guessing “CUSTOM” attribute or explode). Anyone have experience with this framing method? Maybe @medeek would have some thoughts? Thanks.
I’ve seen - and commented on this technique in another thread (I think it was the base @Medeek Wall thread, but I’m not going to search it right now!). Edit about an hour later: Found It!
With such a gap, there will be something that bridges it on the inside of the exterior wall. Might be a membrane, might be drywall installed with air tight techniques, or something else. In any case, the interior wall is still connected to the exterior wall - it’s just not built until after the inside vapor barrier of the exterior wall is in place. And you have to worry about sealing where the fasteners (nails or screws) penetrate the vapor barrier. Methods exists to do this. Some membranes are self-sealing, where you only need to not remove any errant fasteners. Some aren’t - so you might lay them with a sealing compound between the vapor barrier and the studs or blocking in the exterior wall.
Membranes tend to be of negligible thickness, so modeling such an assembly in Medeek Wall likely don’t need to take their thickness into account - just call out the detail on the plans in Layout.
It probably does need some work in the Wall extension to accomodate air tight drywall construction.
And I have no clue how to handle connecting the top plates - of lower floors. I’m just an interested amateur - not an architectural, engineering, or construction pro!
I’ll actually be using this on a detached home office I’ve got designed and will build when I can find a contractor - they’re in very short supply where I’m building - they’re ALL flocking to the California fire areas and swamped with repair/rebuild work!
I’ll be using the membrane approach. There are only 2 interior walls - separating the vanity from the rest of the space. They won’t be load bearing structurally, but there will be a bit of storage space on top, below a truss created vaulted ceiling. Haven’t quite figured out yet how I’m going to support the floor of the storage area. Probably hang ledgers for some joists on 2 walls of the vanity - and smaller ledgers on the other 2 walls to support the edges of the plywood floor of the storage spot. And accept the slightly short(er) than normal ceiling in the vanity. I’ll be using AC plywood with the A side down and open joists - I don’t mind looking at them when I’m using the vanity!
@sjdorst, Thanks for finding the reference. Looks like @medeek is not keen on this “gap” technique. This must be an on-going challenge for a developer. Do you create software based on your experience or customer requirements? A balancing act, for sure!
On another note about Vapor Vs. Air barriers. There is an excellent article here:
This is a section of the article that gets at the heart of the matter:
The interior wall is placed 1/2" away from the exterior wall, as you described, so the gypsum can be slid behind it. I’d just run horizontal blocking between the exterior wall studs so I can connect the end stud of the interior wall once the gypsum is in place.
Regarding the top plate, where I’m from, we always run furring strips perpendicular to the ceiling joists or trusses before building interior non-load-bearing walls. Not sure if people do that in other areas, but that gives you something to nail the top plate to in case your trusses are running parallel to the wall. I don’t think you need anchor bolts for the bottom plate, we’d just nail it down to the subfloor. Unless it’s a shear wall or something.
There’s nothing special that you need to do in Medeek. Just draw your interior wall 1/2" away from the exterior wall, and then manually add your blocking using the blocking tool.
Set the interior wall end type to Terminal, and that will prevent gypsum from wrapping the end.
(Note: The interior wall is 3/4" lower than the exterior wall due to the thickness of the furring.)
Thanks Matt ! Excellent point on the blocking. Still provides a full cavity for insulation. And the furring strips provide more flexibility. Still working on routing electrical, top looking like the best alternative. Still thinking anchor bolts for the bottom plate (slab).
Just to be clear - @Medeek is the developer - not me!
As to vapor/air barrier - my project will be built with highs over 100 F, and lows can get into the single digits. So my plan is an external air barrier - Zip system with an internal “Smart” membrane. When humid, keeps vapor from outgassing, but when there is a freeze line within the wall, it allows vapor to ingas - keeping the insulation dry (assuming I control indoor humidity - which I plan to do!)
It seems like if you insert a column in a wall, it will always cut the top plates, even when it’s not necessary.
I’ve got a situation where I’m inserting some columns to support a beam spanning 3 rough openings. I inserted a single door opening, and manually inserted columns between each rough opening. I manually set the height to match the bottom of the beam. I don’t need the top plate cut, but there doesn’t seem to be an option to disable that from happening.
If I set the column height to FULL, the top plate remains intact, but the columns intersect through the beam to the bottom of the top plate.
Okay, this interesting. I actually never envisioned the column tool being used in this manner (within a door opening) so that is the reason there is no option for top plate removal when the column is less than full height.
The other issue is as I am looking at this further is the bottom plate(s) cutout when the column is used within a doorway like this.
Both of these problems can be easily resolved if I provided an advanced option (manual override) for the bottom and top plate cuts.