Look at what happens when the guide bearing meets the inside corner: it holds the rotating bit away from both edges, leaving a curve the diameter of the bit at that point. You can’t make a non-zero radius bit fit into a zero-radius corner!
I just opened up a package to check. You are all right about that. So, I can now adjust my model by placing the center of arc (as it turns the corner) outside of the box. That should work, and be more accurate.
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It will also require less, maybe no, scaling because it won’t create those converging edges at the bottom of the corner!
I glad I tried the forum. I think I have a satisfying answer and now I know a little bit more about how Sketchup functions. I am curious about the ‘Dave Method’ though. Thanks allot guys. This will save me time and frustration!
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See:
When you are modeling your projects in SketchUp, think about exactly how it would be made in real wood. That can guide you in your modeling. I extended the path off the part at each end to make sure the path and profile start and end square. In the same way you would turn the router on before you make contact with the wood and the router would come off the wood before you shut it off.
And for what it’s worth,
Woodworking is my primary use for SketchUp. A few examples.
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I think part of the mess is created by the non-perpendicular start and end of the path…
That’s something I was thinking too. If we mean the same thing. I did mess with that without success though.
Very nice work. You are a master. What do you use to get those sketchy renderings? I’d be curious to see how you organize all those pieces within your file.
Also, the Dave method makes perfect sense. I’ll be using that.
Just out of curiosity, I drew a bit to do what you originally described. It needs a shape like below. There is a basic issue! The zero radius at the bottom leaves nowhere to put a cutting edge! BTW, I am also a (mostly retired) professional woodworker and I use SketchUp for all my designs.
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Thanks.
As for sketchy line styles, many of them I’m made myself using Style Builder which you have as part of the SketchUp Pro package. There are sources such as Sketchucation (some of my styles are available there) and SketchUpArtists (they also have some of my styles, too.)
For organizing my models, every part that would be made as a piece in the shop is a component. They are all modeled to represent how they’d be made in the shop with the highest precision available for the units I’m using. The precision is higher than I’d use in the shop but I want to see potential errors in the model, not in the shop.
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It’s a good illustration or your point (no pun intended). You are right. I see it now.
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They do exist! A rounded V-groove bit.
Edit: You would need a fence though, as there is no bearing to guide the bit…
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Yes, but not as described, no guide wheel on the end. So you need to create a guide. Everything is possible, but not always the same way.
Too many people post then edit these days.quickly
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@Box True!
I stand corrected! I doubt those bits taper to a perfect point at the bottom, as it would be impossibly fragile, but maybe close enough to get the effect. As @Box noted, you’d need a suitable guide, or perhaps to use a CNC machine.
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Those veining bits are good at burning woods like cherry and maple.
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Indeed! Basic physics/geometry: the tiny radius at the bottom means it has a low linear speed at the edge (rotation rate * radius). It cuts very slowly at the same time as it has almost no material at the point to dissipate the heat from that slow cutting.
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