Good. And I take it from your profile that you are using the free version of SketchUp 8? Assuming that is correct, I used a method that doesn’t require any extensions nor the solid tools.
Start by opening the arched top rail component, select the front curve and copying it. (Command-C on the Mac. Then exit the component and use Edit>Paste in place to paste the copied arc in the same location but outside the component.
Trace the edges of the stiles and the middle rail with the Line tool. When you finish completing the loop of edges a face will form over the window opening. You can delete that face. You can also erase the edges from the arc that extend beyond the opening.
Hide the door parts temporarily leaving just the edges you’ve created. In my screen shot I copied the edges out away from the door for illustration but don’t do that.
Draw a triangle the shape of the chamfer. I put it at the bottom of the loop.
Select the edges of the loop. These will be the path for Follow Me. Get the Follow Me tool and click on the triangle. You’ll wind up with something like the shape on the right. Think of this as the volume of wood the cutter would need to remove in the real door.
Select all of the geometry you just created and hit Command-X to cut it to the clipboard.
Unhide one of the door parts you hid and open it for editing.
Click Edit>Paste in place.
Select all of the geometry, right click and choose Intersect Faces>With Selection.
Erase what isn’t the door frame part you’re working on. This includes the edge that gets cut away during the chamfering.
Correct face orientation as needed.
Hide that part and unhide the next.
Repeat the process.
Since the stiles are instances of the same component, you need only put the chamfer on one of them. So you’ll do the top rail, one stile and the middle rail.
That’s worrisome. I would be worried about getting an ancient version of a program from a link on a YouTube video.
Will the arch be as rough as you are showing it?
The common reason for this is that the component was opened for editing and the geometry was hidden instead of hiding the component itself. Another option if you are using Hide in the right click Context menu, is that you hit Erase instead of Hide.
Well, something like this would be much easier to deal with using the Solid Tools (or better, Eneroth’s version of the Solid Tools ) which requires the Pro version.
Are you you drawing this as a hobby thing or is this your business?
Any suggestions of an up-to-date SU version then? I didn’t get on well with the free one currently being offered through the website. Is SU 8 ancient?
Not the arch will be smooth and slightly more ‘gothic’ but when a drew it on SU that’s how it came out! Any pointers for how not to get such rustic finish gladly received…
So if that’s what I did with the hide, is there anyway to retrieve the component?
The current version is SketchUp 2018 Pro. This would get you the Solid Tools and you could use Eneroth’s Solid Tools.
Yes. I think it was released about 10 years ago. Many improvements since then.
As you can see, SketchUp represents arcs (and circles) with a series of short line segments. You can adjust that number before drawing the arc. If you get the 2-Point Arc tool and then look at the Measurements window, it’ll be labeled ‘Sides’ and show the number 12. If you type in, say, 24s and hit Enter (don’t click in the window first) the arc will be composed of 24 segments instead of 12 and will look smoother. For a gothic arch, you probably want to arcs that meet at the top center to for a sort of point.
You can expose hidden geometry in the View menu. Look for a sort of see through mesh. Triple click on it with the Select tool. This will open the component and select all of the geometry. Then go to Edit>Unhide>All or >Selected.
I would suggest you go with SketchUp Pro, then. You’ll also get LayOut which you’ll use for creating presentations to show clients and plans to work from in the shop or pass on to the trades if you aren’t doing the actual construction. LayOut will make it much easier to present a professional image that you need to get the work.
And besides, the free versions aren’t licensed for commercial work.
I work on house models normally, not furniture but I usually draw a door and frame (30x80) faster than finding and importing one.
To start, I rarely use components, only when necessary or for certain items like stair treads. Use groups to consolidate everything, then make it one component and save that for future use. If you have to show individual parts for the frame (I draw the two sides and top as one piece) then you’ll have to use the “follow me” tool for chamfers and things, on each part/group.
I sometimes draw the doorframe over size by 1/8" all around, then cut the door out of it. Selecting right to left pulls out only the door and leaves the frame intact. The door then needs some repair and while you do that, push it in 1/8" all around, then put it back in the frame using mid-points to center it. You should then have a frame as one group layer 0, a door as another group layer 0, and any hardware etc., as another group, layer 0. Make them all a component and put it on whatever layer you want. You can do this with the 2D initial rectangle, then pull everything up to establish the third dimension, or do that first and do the above procedure.
I’m big on pocket doors recently. After cutting the hole in the wall, go to the bottom edge of the door frame and divide it in 3 pieces. Using the rectangle tool, (the two point rec tool is easier) draw a rectangle from those two inside points up the wall to the header. Push the middle slot created back into the wall 30 1/2". Close the group and draw the door on top of it. Group the door and cut it, open the wall group and paste it in place. Adjust it in the slot. Paint the inside faces of the wall opening with a wood finish. Push Pull using + all surfaces back 1". Fix wood finish painting if necessary. You now have a wood frame that is 1/4" oversize for the rough opening, fitting in the opening exactly. Using left to right selection (with nothing behind it) capture the frame and group it. Open the frame and push/pull the outside surfaces in 1/4". (Shim space) Center the frame in the wall.
Once you have a piece of anything with a profile or chamfer or custom edge on it, it’s more difficult to cut with precision. I use temporary, over-sized rectangles like big meat cleavers to miter handrails etc… Just like installing crown molding with a chop saw. Place them where the blade would fall and learn the “intersect faces” options. Beware: Selecting “Intersect faces with model” is too easy and if you do, you can lock up your 'puter, crash Sketchup and lose the whole file. How do I know that?
