I am not good at English
I want to make a sketch-up work with a 3d printer
No compatible products found in SKP method
Please let me know if there is a conversion software
I’m sorry. I don’t understand what you need. What kind of “SKP method” are you looking for? Once you have created a SketchUp model you can export a .stl file which the 3D printer’s software will be able to import.
If there’s something specific you are trying to model but don’t know how, tell us what you are trying to do. If you have photos of the sort of thing you are trying to model, share them. Share your SketchUp model file if you’ve got one started. There is no reason you shouldn’t be able to model something in Sketchup that is suitable for 3D printing.
A typical work flow when using SketchUp to design for FDM 3D printing is:
The first step is to design the part/object in 3D using SketchUp. While working with SketchUp you save the 3D model as a SKP file. And SketchUp has facilities that you can use to help ensure that your 3D model will be printable … specifically you can ensure that the model is a “solid” object … and that the outside faces are indeed “outside” faces. (This is critically important for SLA 3D printing.)
The next step, when you are ready to print,is to export the 3D model from SketchUp as a STL file.
If you are planning to use a FDM printer the 3D model will have to be sliced into the layers that the printer will print. This is accomplished by loading the STL file into a program called a slicer.
There are a variety of slicer programs available … some are even free. The two that I use most often are the Qura Slicer and the Prusa Slicer … both free.
Once the model is loaded into the slicer … you can view it, set a variety of slice options, and then finally slice it. After that you must export the “slice” information in a format the FDM printer can “understand” … typically this is a G-code file (.gcode).
The G-Code file is quite literally a precise, ordered list of each operation the printer must perform to print the object. Typically the G-code is either loaded into a computer that is dedicated to managing the printer … or loaded into a microSD card that is plugged directly into the printer. Once the G-code file is loaded you are ready to start the printer.
Please understand, this is NOT the only feasible workflow … but it is a common one … and a well documented one.
Good luck with your 3D printing endeavor.
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Thank you very much,
I would like to understand this content and proceed.
2020年8月9日(日) 9:52 Ernest E. Godsey via SketchUp Forum <sketchup@discoursemail.com>:
Attached are some files that may help you see how all of this fits together.
This SketchUp SKP file is a simple 20mm cube.200810A_2mm_Cube.skp (37.9 KB)
This STL was then exported from SketchUP.200810A_20mm_Cube.stl (6.7 KB)
And then the STL file was the loaded into a slicer (Cura).
After selecting the type of material, the printer model, the print resolution … and a host of other print parameters … the model was “sliced”
The sliced model was then saved as a G-Code file.200810A_20mm_Cube.gcode (610.0 KB)
And the G-Code file was then loaded onto a MicroSD card that was plugged into a FDM printer … and the 20mm cube was printed.
The original SketchUp model was a precise 2cm (20mm) cube. The cube printed slightly larger … 20.04mm. Thus the Y-axis of the printer appears to be out of calibration by a nominal .2% … which is a acceptable for a hobbyist printer.
Work with these files and you will be able to become proficient at 3D printing your SketchUp designs.
Thank you for your guidance
I think that in terms of shortening the time for 3D printing and the material economy,
I would like to see a hollow interior, is this the correct answer?
2020年8月11日(火) 8:32 Ernest E. Godsey via SketchUp Forum <sketchup@discoursemail.com>:
A SketchUp model shows only the exterior surfaces (planes) … with a wall thickness of zero.
And then the printed the wall thickness and the interior in-fill pattern are set in the slicer. Some of those settings can be seen in the screen shots of the Cura slicer.
Both the pattern and the density of the in-fill can be set in Cura. As you correctly point out … lower infill densities print faster … and use less material … but they are also weaker.
So there is a trade-off … that is why this activity is called “design.”
You could also design the SketchUp model with an exterior wall and an interior wall. Then the density of the space between the two walls could be set in the slicer … and “real” the interior could be entirely empty.
Here’s an example of one such a part … it is the “head” of a photographic tripod. In the section view the multiple “empty” spaces are clearly visible. The density of the space between the walls was set in the slicer. This part need to have some strength … so I think it was printed with a density of 50%.
Regards,
E. Godsey
Here is a screenshot of the 20mm cube, in the Cura slicer … in PREVIEW mode.
Cura lets you “watch” a simulation of the print … layer by layer … here the print is approximately 2/3 finished.
This screen shot clearly shows the wall thickness, the interior in-fill pattern … and the low density of the in-fill. There are a wide variety of in-fill patterns … and the density can be set from 0% to 100%. This PREVIEW mode in the slicer lets you look at how the material is going to be laid down on the inside of the part … so you can make your own judgment on whether the printed part will be strong enough … or not.
Also … notice in the lower right hand corner of the Cura screenshot there is a small window that reports how long the part will take to print … and how much material will be required … but in terms of meters (length) of material … and in terms of grams (weight) of material.
thank you very much.
2020年8月11日(火) 9:54 Ernest E. Godsey via SketchUp Forum <sketchup@discoursemail.com>:
thank you very much.
Very easy to understand,
Adjust and see
2020年8月11日(火) 10:11 Ernest E. Godsey via SketchUp Forum <sketchup@discoursemail.com>:
Thank you all
Thanks to that, you can comfortably print in 3D.