The first thing to say about that roof is that it has been clad in timber so what you are looking at may not be the waterproof part of the roof, which could be hidden underneath and conventional in design.
Having said that, designers in the 1960s got very excited by the idea of hyperbolic paraboloid roofs which can be formed using straight lines but appear curved. See this article: Hyperbolic paraboloid in construction - Designing Buildings
If you do design a roof like this, you will have to be careful what decking and covering you use as it too will have to follow the double curvature without wrinkling. And of course, it will cost a fortune to build in the first place! Looks cool though.
Not necesarily, you would have to pay attention to details. When applied vertical, cladding can come along way ( I have restored wooden houses with the original cladding from the 17th century), but when applied at these slopes, water and sun become your enemy, so the maintaing costs maybe more then with traditional roofing.
(Painting can do more damage, if you do not use the right system)
Btw, roofing also costs money!
As for the roof being curved, as I said, the lines defining the perimeter appears to be straight, what happens in between is probably the warping of the boards themselfs, as @c_j_ryan explained.
When building a roof, you always make use of the natural bending of rafters, assuring the top to be facing upwards, thus creating a ânatural curvedâ roof. The same goes for studs, as well. It actually feels âunnaturalâ when you have a perfect flat wall or roof, which is why the builders from long ago implemented them in their buildings:
Hi all, I have an existing âshedâ that is class in Siberian larch (vertical) ship lap creating nice vertical lines and a zinc roof. Do you think a zinc roof can be uses to create this kind of âwarpedâ look? I donât want to create an enormous amount of work and have not yet explored how to build the base rafters and marine ply. Maybe I am dreaming and if the rafters were close enough to create the âcurvesâ I thought I might be able to screw down a couple of thinner layers of offset ply so I could âbendâ the ply. In Scandinavia using steam for glulam or even steaming wood for curves is often done but I am in the UK. The reason for the zinc attraction it looks nice and clean and no maintenance (which I am trying to avoid). Since so many of you have much design and build construction if there is good way to approach construction (which I am planning to do myself) of this roof design, I am grateful for any suggestions. This is my (I am 65) retirement project! ha Thanks again all
Metal sheet can be a problem on curves as it tends to wrinkle. You may be able to do it using zinc tiles, a bit like fish scales. The problem then is pitch as you have to be careful that you donât go so shallow that wind driven rain can get up between the âscalesâ - an especially acute problem with a material that is smooth and non-absorbent like metals.
I have used zinc as a roof cladding here in the UK but only in flat sheets. I found that getting an installer to take any interest in anything as small as a house was very difficult.
Pace @MikeWayzovski, I think you will find that any curved work is several times the cost of flat work. The setting out alone is very time consuming.
Yes, within reason, that should be possible. You would have to experiment to see just how flexible the ply proved to be and you would probably need to bond each layer to the next.
To me the very nature of wood and itâs flexibility makes it all quite straightforward.
Position your straight rafters at the correct angles, use battens to fix your zinc to. Insulation and a waterproof membrane would be a good idea too.
Basically the gentle curve done with straight lines and the flexibility of the materials make it work. I worked in London about 20 years ago with a roofer and produced many this way, whether they needed to twist or not.
Huh? The vast majority of flat walls and roofs I have come across make as sure as they can that timbers are not warped because it causes all kinds of headache if they are. Barrel roofs are different of course.
As for the Parthenon, there do seem to be a lot of clever design tricks built in to the stonework. How much do we know about the roof design though? None of it survived the blast as far as I know. Given that you would not have seen the roof from the ground, I would guess there were no visual tricks up there. By UK standards, the pitch for a tiled roof would have been very fleet, but of course, there is a bit less driving rain in the Med!
Wow-- what a cool video how Box created the rafters! The very gentle slope is what I had in mind. Any thoughts how much slope I would need to get water to run âleft to right and back to frontâ. The area is ca. 3m x 6m and height 290cm from slab. I want thinking about making something like a âsoak awayâ hole in the front right corner (lowest point where water falls from roof that would basically be a hole filled with gravel⌠stupid question how can I âcopyâ the Box rafter video so it is saved. When I export is does so as 99 individual images and not a video. thanks so much all!
Iâm not sure which way you consider to be up, but I was taught that carpenters âcrown raftersâ by sighting down each one to see if it has a natural bend in it, and then marking it with an arrow for up such that it bows upward in the middle. Itâs a form of pre-cambering. The idea is that after dead and some live loads are added, it will tend to flatten out instead of starting with a sag that only gets greater. Precast concrete is often made with such pre-cambering build in.
I was taught the same concept for cedar wall shingles; you sight down the edge of each shingle to see if itâs cupped, and then put the cupped (concave) side against the wall. Driving in the nails in the middle sucks it flat against the wall.
Was refering to the horizontal cladding, as said the curving might be optical, like @box was showing.
They still would have a natural âupâ and âdownâ sideâŚ
There is no such thing as âno maintenanceâ but, it will go a long way, provided that there will be no acids-holding materials above it, for it will eat the zinc.
The best underground for zinc is raw (unplained?) timber (22x33) battens nailed tight to each other, following the (straight) rafters placed on the dwarfed wall. Then a membrane like thies:
Generally on a PC you can right click on the Gif and select Save Image as and that will save a gif for you.
On Mac I donât know, it there a form of context click in a browser?
What a great product! I am familiar with Tyvek as it appears it seems to appear on all âwell builtâ houses from my original home (Vermont). I think in the coming months once I get closer to building I will graciously ask for you wonderful group of experts to take a look at the kind of section of how I will build the walls and roof and see that it makes good sense. I am assuming I can screw rather than nail and want to be sure I buy the correct screws that donât ever rust etc. I have learned my lesson seeing my parents house with nails that rust through (god how many nail head have I had to sink and then fill over the decades) but then again I am sure their house didnât get Tyvek!
This below link to the TIMBER method was something that I was considering in terms of the wall constructionânot sure on the interior yet though but this was the general idea-- welcome thoughts:
There is a Norwegian supplier of these materials who make âNordic roomsâ. I am considering using their supplies with my design and my construction. Any thoughts how think I need a concrete slab with rebar in a 3 x 6m space. I also plan to put a running machine (220kg) in their. Can this be done with say a few inches of gravel and then build the frame and mix concrete and sand and add steel as I go. I need to remove a whole lot of earth (60cm in order to comply with height restrictions) which will take many weeks as no access for machines. Yours truly with a shovel and filling bags of soil (30kg) then loading into Land Cruiser and driving to dumpâŚI hate to think how many trips that will be. But good fitness for a 65 year oldâŚhah As alway-- greatly appreciate your expert input.
Hello all, I have been very busy âdiggingâ and now removed nearly 8mt of soil in 35kg bags, carrying out of my garden up stairs and into skip-- great exercise for a 65 year oldâŚand I am only halfway done! The reason for my post is seeking advice on preparation for the concrete screed. The area will be approx. 7m by 4m and used as a painting studio and gym. There will be a 200kg running machine, otherwise not much heavy stuff. Can someone please chime in with appropriate thickness and design of screed: 10 inch of C35 concrete; 2 inch gravel; steel mesh and some DPM???.. My thought now is to have a powerfloat polished concrete floor. I have yet to figure out if I can pump the concrete from street. But I am assuming mixing that amount of concrete in situ (sand, cement, water) and pouring will be a slow process and perhaps not resulting in a great result?? Any general guidance on the concrete slab specification and this is for London, UK (so some frost is possible but not typically colder than -5C). Many thanks and once the digging is completed I will return with more help with my design. I greatly underestimated how long it takes to fill hundreds of bags of soil at 35kg, then carrying 30m upstairs to street! Oh wellâŚhah
