Faster way to make a mitered 2 x 4?

I just finished a little personal project that required me to miter a 2 x 4 along a 45-degree angle so that it’s flush with the adjoining pieces. I figured out how to do it one way, but it seems unnecessarily convoluted:

5Size3Speed

  1. Draw rectangle
  2. Rotate rectangle
  3. Push/Pull it into a 2x4
  4. Extend the long edges at the top to the face and join.
  5. Delete unnecessary lines.
  6. Extend the long edges at the bottom to the plane and join. (Yes, I forgot to draw that last bottom edge!)
  7. Delete the unnecessary lines.

Is there way to snap the lower short edge to the plane when I push/pull it downward?

Then, is there a way to move the upper short edge and force it along the 45-degree angle and snap it to the upright face?

That would shorten this process by about 80%.

Thanks!

I would group the geometry after Step 3. Then open the group and use Push/Pull to run the edges past the vertical and horizontal pieces. Then draw a line where they meet each piece, and use Push/Pull to get rid of the extra geometry. This would save you a dozen or so clicks.

4 Likes

Thanks! I tried doing it that way, earlier, by intersecting the 2x4 with the post and then cleaning it up with the eraser, but that seemed slow, too.

Is there no way to constrain or snap an edge while moving?

edit: ah, i answered before I’d seen your gif. Brilliant! I’d forgotten than you can use Push/Pull to effectively delete something.

Thanks!

No guideline is needed. Select the short top edge. Select the Move tool. Move the cursor on the long top edge. When the “On edge” tooltip appears, press and hold down Shift. Click on endpont of short edge. Click on vertical surface. Release Shift.

Aha! That’s brilliant, too. This is what I was originally wanting to do, but I couldn’t figure out how to force the inference.

So both methods work, and could be useful in different circumstances.

Thanks!

edit: and now I’ve just used LICEcap for the first time to illustrate both methods, for the benefit of other n00bs:

3 Likes

Here’s another option, would be faster with keyboard shortcuts.
Mitre

1 Like

I’m a little late to the party, but here’s another option.(similar to Box’s) I like to draw pieces in place rather than rotating them.
Using the protractor to set desired angle, then tape measure to set the width, no orbiting required just a little zoom…

1 Like

Excellent. Many routes to salvation!

1 Like

As a ‘builder’ I am familiar with @TheOnlyAaron 's method (You grab a 2"4", hold it against the Post and draw a line, go to miter saw and cut it!) I think the fastest way in getting things done is the way that suits you :slight_smile:
If you

and start grouping, you’ll get these bounding boxes which do not align with the axes

Hi Aaron
How does ‘grouping’ help ?

Regards
Geoff

I don’t hold pieces up to anything anymore, I design them and cut them to the dimensions. I can see your comparison though.

Make group/component, right click, align axis.

You would have to align axis prior to grouping them, on a face (4 Xtra clicks…)

Do you want yet another way?
The copy rotate.
Mitre2

1 Like

No you wouldn’t. Align the component axes AS you are making the component. It’s trivial.

Or do it after you’ve made the component.

1 Like

But not when creating groups, though

Another of the many reasons why I use components and don’t use groups.

1 Like

So the motivation for this entire thread was this trellis I made for a my next Dragonfruit vine:


It took my several hours, literally, to draw it the first time, because I was re-learning SU after not having used it for several years, and I’d forgotten about groups, components, and arrays, so the whole drawing was just a mishmash of individual edges and faces. :scream:

After relearning those 3 key concepts I was able to repro the same drawing in about 15 minutes.

With these miter methods I could probably do it in 10.

Y’all could probably do it in 5.

Ready, Set, Go!

p.s. it took me even longer to build, because I’m daft. I cut all the diagonal pieces exactly 2’ long, at 90 degrees, and then cut the miters. All by hand. :roll_eyes:

p.p.s. I’m a stickler for exact dimensions, even when they don’t matter at all. The center 4x4 post is 6’ tall; the bottom legs are 4’ long; the upper box has a 1’ clear “diameter” around the center post (hence the odd length); all the diagonals are 1’ from the inner horizontal and vertical edges they support. This makes the longer edge of the diagonals 1.9975’, or close enough that SU displays their lengths as 2’, even though that’s an output dimension and not an input dimension.

3 Likes

Just after the protractor is selected, you can see the mouse drag to the other edge of the upright, why is this done ?

Click and hold while dragging is one way to set the axis of rotation. Especially useful when the axis of rotation is not parallel to one of the axes in the model.

1 Like

thanks Dave, I’ve been practicing but that had me stumped :slight_smile: