Is there a easier way to router edge of board with 45 deg. ends?

When I take a board and cut the ends to 45 deg. then try to router the end I’m left with a mess to clean up on the ends.

I also tried to router the edge and then cut the 45’s on the ends, but that seem to leave me with a bigger mess.

What’s the best way to router a edge on a board that I want 45 deg cuts on?

Thanks,

It’s not bad to clean up using Intersect Faces, just wondering if that’s best practice.

Also does it make any difference when building a model if I would create four boards then put together a frame like structor with them or if I would create one big board and just push the center out leaving me with something similar?

Intersect Faces is the correct choice for that situation. However, if the idea is to make a mitered frame, just use Follow Me to run a profile of the frame around a rectangular path. Instant frame with mitered corners.

-Gully

That would make more sense. Just as you would probably do if building it for real. Thanks

Not exactly, because with Follow Me you don’t really have to cut the miters. Follow Me makes a mitered turn as part of the extrusion process.

-Gully

Like this then?

Then clean up the corners.

No. Forget starting with the flat-sided frame thing. You make the frame starting with only the profile and path. Your profile would be wider than mine.

You will have to draw the 45-degree lines on the top when the extrusion is done because that’s all one continuous face, so Follow Me didn’t have to form actual breaks in the surface.

-Gully

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If instead of using four boards I use one board and push the center out I get cleaner edges with the follow me tool. Does it matter how I go about it. Will I notice a difference as I keep building, maybe when I apply material to it?

Thanks,

I did not see this before I posted my other second way.

So if I do all one board, push the center out and draw 45 lines on it that gives me the same results as assembling four individual boards with 45’s already cut on the end?

Edited to add:

Ok, will try that way tomorrow. Time to call it a day. Thanks

In all my examples I was working with a 1"x6" board. Seem the best advice is to profile the complete end of the 1"x6" and then draw the path the size I want of the outer dimensions of the frame.

Seems as if there is always more then one way to draw something, but I want to learn what’s the best way, thanks.

Sometimes one method is more appropriate than another. It depends on a number of factors. There are times when it makes sense to create the “boards” from the path and profile and other times when it makes sense to use the profile like a router bit. Even other times where it makes sense to create a volume representing where the cutter will go and use it to cut away the waste. I did that to create the stopped chamfers on the stretchers of this hayrake table.

If you want to make the frame pieces separate “boards” as they would be in reality, you can pry them out of the frame after you add in the diagonals at the corners. This is a handy way to create the mitered piece with the profiled edge. Basically after you draw the diagonal lines at the corners, you can select the geometry that makes up one “board” and make it a component or group separate from the rest of the geometry. Repeat as needed for the other parts. I used a similar method to separate the leaves from the top on this drop leaf table. I created “cutters” shaped like the rule joint which were intersected with the top and then I made components of the sections.

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router edge of board with 45 deg ends is actually a myth.