How to sheath a reciprocal roof — twisted plane

[JanSteinman]

I finally figured out how to lay out reciprocal roof rafter logs.

Now, I’m trying to sheath it.

The problem is that adjacent logs are not co-planar. Simply tracing a trapezoid between adjacent logs doesn’t fill in like it would co-planar.

The real thing will be sheathed in 2x6 tongue-and-groove. So I thought I would try to assemble individual 2x6s on the frame, starting at the lower ends. But I can’t seem to make that work.

I tried drawing a parallelogram that I could extrude. But it won’t fill in to make a face.

I thought of laying a line down across the ends, making a 1.75x5.75 rectangle on one end, and using “follow me” to draw the 2x6, but it won’t draw a rectangle on a slope — it insists on squaring it up with the RGB axes.

The pole is a component. So I tried “edit component” and was able to make a rectangle that was co-planar to the pole and extrude it, but that isn’t really what I want, either! I don’t see any way to “follow me” while editing a component.

If you have any advice for me, I’m all ears!

You can get the model at: Trimble Connect Web

Thanks!

[JanSteinman]

That link may not work. Here is the URL Trimble Connect told me to use: SketchUp

[ateliernab]

@JanSteinman

it insists on squaring it up with the RGB axes.

use the other rectangle tool, the oriented one. it allows you to draw a non orthogonal (to the axes) rectangle, also non flat.

that, or temporary relocate the axes in a place that suits you.

@JanSteinman

You can get the model at:

well, no, both links are viewing links. first requires access, second doesn’t but sill, a viewing link

[bmike]

Do you need the level of detail of each board modeled? Can you just make the planes and thicken them?

If you do need / want each board model it flat on the ground and carefully place it where it goes. You will likely need to split the difference in alignment as you can’t ‘twist’ a real board into place… (but you can, if you steam bend each piece…)

Depending on how you built the roof sections you can hopefully rotate / copy the boards from one section to the next.

You could also cut backing angles on the round logs, treating them like hips. The last reciprocal roof I did was done like this (but it was square timber, not round).