Truss Plugin/Extension


#462

Medeek Truss vs. MS Physics:

Pretty clear the house didn’t have a chance.

I’m actually very impressed with the collision detection of MS Physics, an amazing extension.


#463

I’m sure that it wouldn’t have fallen down if you added a few pins from a finish nailer here and there! :wink:


#464

Looks funny that the subfloor stayed together.
Nicely done however.

Shep


#465

Version 1.8.7 ? :grimacing:


#466

I ungrouped everything except for some of the trusses. Without the nails this would be the fate of any house.

Kind of fun to watch a bunch of trusses domino each other, probably educational for an installer to better illustrate what can happens when you don’t properly brace your trusses.


#467

I’ve been reviewing my Todo list lately and it really hasn’t shrunk much, if anything it has grown a bit as I’ve added some new features in the last month and more catching up needs to be done with various truss types.

I only work on this project part time and on the weekends as much as possible, so my progress since September of 2016 has been quite slow (took a new job with the City of Ocean Shores).

Currently the Truss Plugin has seen the most development but I am also spread between the other separate plugins as well:

Medeek Wall Plugin
Medeek Structural Plugin
Medeek Foundation Plugin
Medeek Deck Plugin

The structural and wall plugins will be just as complex and involved as the Truss Plugin and will require a couple years of my full time attention to get where they need to go.

When I step back and look at everything I want to accomplish there is just no way, given my current situation, that I can achieve it. It would be nice to also be able to hire some help in knocking out some of the coding, realistically there is only so many hours in a day and only so much one person can do.

I would really like to work full time on all of this as I see it has some serious potential and I’m also very excited about it but my previous attempt at using KickStarter to raise some working capital did not amount to much.

I was watching Shark Tank last night and I was thinking would this type of business even have a chance in that setting? Anyhow, I am open to any ideas you might have in how to really blow this thing up and get it going.


#468

Hi Nathaniel,

I have a bit of experience with startups and funding. The guys on shark tank are very low risk entrepreneurs. Something like what you’re doing would likely be perceived as too risky for the likes of them. However, there are a number of great websites out there that will expose you to investors that do take larger risks.
You might start with AngelList, and Funded.
If you have’t done so already, you’ll need to build a pitch deck. Pitch decks help you think through the details of your business: problem, solution, market size, personas and user scenario(s).
Another option is to join a startup incubator in your area.
Hopefully, this is helpful and I’m not repeating stuff you’ve already tried.

-Matt


#469

Version 1.8.7 - 03.26.2017

  • Added energy/raised heels for double howe truss (3 variant: wedge, slider and vertical w/ strut).
  • Metal plate connectors now enabled for double howe trusses.

Back to updating all the truss types with metal plates, raised heels and all other advanced options.


#470

Recently I’ve had a couple requests for bobtail/stub end trusses.

When specifying how to truncate the truss, what lengths are typically used to control the location of the stub end(s)?

1.) Stub or heel height.
2.) Nominal span minus stub length


#471

Then of course to further complicate matters there is the double bobtail truss which is really nothing more than a raised heel truss with unequal heel heights

So rather than add in a completely new category of trusses I suppose I could just allow the user to specify a heel height for both the left and right side of the common truss. Currently the first menu has the option for a raised heel which is then applied to both sides of the truss. I think I could just update to be:

Raised Heel Left: YES/NO "Defaults to NO"
Height Height Left (in.): “Defaults to 12” if no user entry"
Raised Heel Right: YES/NO "Defaults to NO"
Heel Height Right (in.): “Defaults to SAME AS LEFT”


#472

Version 1.8.8 - 04.28.2017

  • Added energy/raised heels for mod fan truss (3 variant: wedge, slider and vertical w/ strut).
  • Metal plate connectors now enabled for mod fan trusses.


#473

Fun with Roofs - Episode 1

My 9 year old son took one look at this roof and then said “Don’t build this in Florida, you’ll create a sink hole”.

View model here:


#474

Version 1.8.9 - 05.01.2017

  • Added energy/raised heels for triple fink truss (3 variant: wedge, slider and vertical w/ strut).
  • Metal plate connectors now enabled for triple fink trusses.


#475

I’m trying to figure out the correct way to frame the stairwell as it joins up with the floor diaphragm above.

It’s hard to show exactly what I mean with sectional views, the best thing is to view the 3D model and you will see what I am talking about.

I am working on the polygon and hole tool for I-Joist and Solid Sawn floors. When you actually frame out this opening would you just use rimboard around the perimeter as I have shown?


#476

I’ve got to fix my wife’s computer today so that will probably stop me from getting any real meaningful work done on the plugins but at least I’ve been able to throw together a first draft for the office I want to build. Any thoughts on improving the design, sometimes once you get an idea in your head it is hard to see outside the box.

I haven’t shown the doors or the front porch which will probably be quite small and pressure treated lumber.

  • 32’x24’
  • 5:12 or 6:12 roof with asphalt shingles
  • two rooms
  • 9’ ceilings
  • stemwall foundation with crawlspace
  • carpet throughout
  • 5/8" wallboard
  • 3068 doors, (1) 4040XO, (3) 5040XO
  • 11-7/8" I-Joists at 16" o/c
  • studs DF No. 2, 2x6 @ 16" o/c
  • sheathing will probably be 1/2" plywood, I don’t like OSB in our climate.
  • Siding Hardiplank or cedar siding, my budget may call for T11 though.
  • Electric wall cadet heaters
  • 50 AMP sub-panel from house
  • 16" overhangs at eaves and gables with gutters and downspouts and 4" drain lines away from building.

#477

Since you like details I thought your stairs could use some details as well.

There are 2 types of stairs here. One with cut stringers and one with housed stringers. Both have glue blocks. The housed stringers are routed and wedged.

The stairs are narrower than your opening to allow for drywall. If the real stair goes in before drywall then I provide a 3/4" thick ledger to fasten the stringer securely to the studs (I hate stairs that squeak)

two stairs.skp (251.6 KB)


#478

I’ve never actually seen housed stringers in real life, only in textbooks.


#479

I’ve built lots of these simple stairs.

Here is a stair I’ve built a few times. This one is curved and straightens out at the wall stringer. It has a cut stringer on the inside and a housed (wedged) stringer on the outside.

The progressive flair keeps the runs consistent without any change of pitch. This stair has solid oak treads and bent oak plywood for risers and stringers. 1/8" oak veneer for the tops and bottoms of the stringers.

Even the bottom is finished.

The oak nosings are solid, and mitered - fitted to the treads.

And the stringers are mitered to fit the risers and routed to fit the treads and risers

Sorry - I corrected 1 wrong image


#480

Wow, how do you actually make the curved stringer?


#481

It is a process.

  • After the client has signed off on the design I complete all the math.
  • Then we layout the shape of the walls so we can build a bending form
  • Next we build the forms - 1 for the inside stringer and 1 for the outside stringer.
  • The next step is to cut all the required lamination material that makes up the stringers and the handrail.
  • Then layout the stringer on the the skin for each of the stringers.
  • Glue up the stringers
  • Once the glue has sufficiently dried then clean up the stringers and rout them.
  • After all the parts are milled then assemble the stair.

Here are the bending forms complete with 3/4" thick cauls which help spread out the clamping pressure and provides accurate placement of the stringer’s glue lams and protects the thin skin.

Here is the layout of the (flattened) stringer for an open riser freestanding stair. These treads are 2 1/4" thick with a 1" nosing and have a 1/2" bullnose for carpet.