The purple screws are normal. But the red screws in the wooden plates between the left and right side have a different color. On the left side they are darker and on the right side they are lighter. The top and bottom plates with the screws are mirrored components. The design on the left and right side of each plate with the screws sections are identical. So why are the colors of the screws on the left and right in the wood section not the same?
Here is a photo of the front view without the screws.
Sure. Keep in mind its not finished. The pilot holes on the top section are cubical but that is just a representation. In actuality they will be cylindrical. The same with the screws.
The mechanism is to be put inside a wall in my home to function as a passthrough for cables. In between the pads at the center is where the HDMI or Ethernet cable will pass through. Its designed to allow the cables to pass through while blocking the sound. The idea is to have a computer tower in one room with the cables passing into the next room. The reason for this is because i get headaches from the fans inside a tower with a graphics card. So i want to place the tower in one room and have a display/speaker with input devices in the other working room.
The top section is most likely correct. The bottom section is still in development as i am not sure i will be even using it.
Those orange screws have the “Screw 3” New tag which is colored a dark orange.
There’s too much nesting in your model. Those orange screws along with the purple ones are included in a nested component called "Component#30 which is tagged TopBottom. That means those screws will diappear if you turn off the TopBottom tag. You could simplify your model a great deal and make it easier to work with by eliminating the most if not all of the nesting.
Is this thing supposed to be structural or do you have the free world supply of screws? For a cable pass through this seems extremely over built. What my dad would refer to as brick outhouse engineering.
I don’t see how but if it works for you then go ahead. Your model is difficult to work with due to the way you are using nested components and tags. If you like that work flow I will stop trying to convince you otherwise.
From what I could see you are getting some z-fighting because there is no clearance between the screw at the material it is inside.
The faces are occupying the same space so on some bits the transparent face is on top of the other - causing a colour discrepancy.
Short of colouring the backside of the faces causing the issue , one thing you could try is editing the style’s transparency settings and changing it from “faster” to “nicer”. This will thrown a few more calculations towards the transparent style - which are a little more intensive to render and may give you a more consistent result.
Just realised you are on the web version - you may be missing that option.
Dave R, i will give the exploded nesting a try. I kind of like it. I also think if i hand this design to an architect then it would probably make more sense to be exploded since im guessing that is the formal way of doing things.
Elmtec-Adam, i will try yours style as well. However i dont think z fighting was causing that issue since i never noticed z fighting in x ray mode. Usually z fighting is when its not in x ray mode and there is also screen tearing. However i could be wrong. Maybe it is is z fighting but appearing differently in x ray mode. However it is worth noting that Dave’s Exploded version fixed the color defect. So the components had something to do with it. This would again imply that z fighting is not the cause. If it is then its too complicated for me to understand.
EDIT: Z fighting happens in nicer mode setting in transparency but not in faster setting when using x ray mode.
I’m not sure you are getting my point about excessive nesting of components.
Just try keeping your models simpler. You’ll find they are easier to work with that way.
By the way, I know you want to cut this big hole through your wall for this pass through but have you considered a couple of rewwork boxes and off the shelf HDMI and Ethernet wall pass through plates? You could stagger the boxes if you want and even stuff them with foam if you are concerned about sound passing through the wall. Should be less than 30 minutes of DIY without any major construction like your design requires.
Yeah i considered a standard approach. But it doesn’t offer enough soundproofing as my custom approach. i know i can insulate around the box with rockwool and maybe foam as well, but inside the rework box is where the problem lies. If i leave it open then too much sound passes through the wall. If i put foam in there then it gets messy when i move the cable around or ever decide to change the cable altogether.
I check all over amazon and could not find the ideal solution. I thought about putting up jacks on each side with HDMI and Ethernet ports but could not find a short HDMI or Ethernet cable to put in the wall. I thought about having a long cable go through the wall sideways so that the sound will dampen as it travels through the wall but that means having cables in walls which raises the fire hazard. Of course i could just put the cables inside a conduit and pass them through the wall sideways but the sound will still propagate through the conduit and its also a more difficult job.
In the end i found my solution, if meeting code, which it should since the pads are fire resistant, to be the ideal solution. The HDMI cable and the ethernet cable will both be tucked in between the pads producing minimal gaps, as the pads offer good sound dampening. And if i ever want to change a cable i just slide out the old one and slide in the new one.
The only issue is making sure the head of the cable doesn’t scratch the pads as it goes through. I have not figured out a solution for that. Im open to suggestions.
