I saw my wife’s sewing machine on the dining room table and decided to make this model. I found a model on line with a lift to conceal the sewing machine when marking and cutting fabric and asked her what she thought. She said that she would prefer a table without a cut-a-way or a lift, so I modeled this table. When she looked at it after I was in the process, she advised me to use shiplap to hide the space in the back and side of the the drawer boxes.
Here’s a wood handplane for shooting board use. Note the Shark Fin. At first I was not sure how to make it, but it was easy after using a combination of the follow me tool and using a blank to cut out the other sides arc, then erasing the unneeded edges and faces.
This Lazy Susan’s components are joined together with glue, rabbets and grooves. The parts are small. Sliding doors are featured with small Pull/Knobs. Care would have to be taken to round the ends of the Doors so that neighboring Doors can open.
I will eventually re-upholster an old chair that has worn out fabric. I measured the dimensions of the seat and made this model to help determine how much fabric, cushioning, and padding I will need. Next will be the seat back and finally the rest of the chair. The sunglasses are on emoji because yesterday I had cataract removal and lens replacement surgery completed on my old eyes.
I did my best to model this chair that I’m going to re-upholster. It was very complex with many curves and serpintine shapes. I think that I can use this for estimating the amount of upholstery materials that I will need. I did not intend for the bottom of the rear legs to look pigeon-toed, and I guessed at those angles. To fix that would mean erasing the rear legs and starting over another time. This took me too long, because I made the mistake of starting with the Upholstery instead of the chair frame. I made several re-starts and the templates helped me place the parts. One thing that I noticed after a few false starts was that the front of the seat is higher than the back of the seat on the actual chair. So that was one of the things that caused me to start over.
I started with this file named “Gizmo.” Once I decided on what this model would be, I tried to change the name by clicking on Gizmo and typing in “Crate.” It would not allow that name change even though there are no special characters in crate. That’s why the name is “Container.” I did not make copies of all the nails and tacks needed, because it is too much geometry. I did note the number of nails and tacks needed and left the starting holes drilled in the components.
This model is based on a Woodsmith Magazine video. I would recommend ordering the plan from Woodsmith it you want to build it, because I was guessing how to install some of the hardware (specifically the Spring Latches). My dimensions are probably different and I used some dovetails instead of fasteners. It was a challenge to place it in the knockdown, portable mode. I kept having to change the parts and where they fit together. The component named Side and Side #1 kept needing changes in order to fold it up. I made a “Spacer” to enable Side #1 to fold down, too. There are a couple of extra Draw Latch parts somewhere that I could not find. I found a couple of extra components that were copied on top of another one.
These add-ons to the Knockdown Workbench came from a follow-on video by Woodsmith Magazine. The first scene just shows the parts of the workbench where the add-ons are attached.
Based upon the thread about a J-Handle drawer pull, I practiced using meters in place of inches and then re-scaling using the tape measure tool. This J-Handle is a simpler shape than in the other thread.
Reference the thread on weld creases, I used a component pattern made with a pie tooled half circle and the follow me tool, rotated 45 degrees and twisted in segments 15 degrees. Then I made a quarter round component. These would have to be scaled using the tape measure tool to fit where the seam would be.