Medeek Wall Plugin


#61

Working on the advanced options this morning, I’ve added in sheathing, cladding and gypsum:

As windows and doors are added to the wall they will automatically cut holes into the framing and these three other building layers. The code to cut holes in solids is actually not to difficult, I developed it with the foundation plugin when I needed to add foundation vents into stemwalls.

I will probably put the cavity insulation and the holdowns on the backburner for a a while as I focus on the wall edit function and the window and door (framed opening) module.

I’ve also added one additional (Tee Corner) corner configuration for each end of the wall.

I will also be adding in two additional parameters so when you edit a given wall panel you can offset the sheathing and cladding above or below the actual wall panel to tie into a rim joist above or below. Some contractors also like to lap the sheathing and cladding over the foundation rather than having it flush with the sill/bottom plate.

On a similar note it might also be useful to allow the user to set the bottom plate as pressure treated (ie. garages where the wall is directly in contact with the foundation). I’m not sure yet where I want to put this parameter.


#62

PT bottom plate option added into the first menu.

The little structure below is not much to look at (no windows or doors yet) but it is the first time I’ve been able to create an entire building envelope with absolutely no manual editing of the SketchUp model. This in itself is a major break through for me. I used all three plugins to create the model: Foundation, Truss and Wall.

All principal architectural elements are there: sheathing, cladding, gypsum, anchor bolts, rebar, concrete, roof cladding, gutters etc…

The only items missing are exterior and interior trim/molding and of course the windows and doors.

My next push will be the windows and door module.

The time required to create the walls was under a minute however once I have the polyline tool enabled this will cut down the initial wall creation time to literally seconds.

Insertion of doors and windows will always take a bit longer primarily because the designer actually needs to determine where they want to place their openings. There is not much one can do about that other than to make the actual placement/insertion process as intuitive and automated as possible.


#63

The wall edit feature is now functional and seems to be fairly robust:

The wall edit menu shown above.

Originally I was going to have all the windows and doors load up within this same menu but given how big it has grown already I think a separate edit menu for door and windows would be more practical.

I will also need to add in some additional code so that when certain parameters are modified in the wall edit menu those changes are then propagated to other wall panels that are assigned to the same wall group letter.


#64

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet (I didn’t find it in a word search)…

Are there any plans for adding in an option for Fire-Blocking (/Draft Stop)?


#65

This completely got by me.

What do you have in mind, should the fire-blocking be auto centered at mid height or do you want more user control over it?

Examples are always great.


#66

I’d assume they would be placed by choice typically at intervals dictated by sheathing ~8’
You can install as many as you want but as I recall the minimum is every 8 feet.


#67

I’ve added mid-span blocking into the advanced options:

View model here:

This option will probably need additional parameters (mid-span, 8’ on center, 4’ on center) to make it really useful but at least it is a placeholder for now.


#68

The cavity insulation option in the advanced options will fill in the wall cavities with insulation:

This feature will only get more interesting as windows and doors are added.

I supposed there will be some utility to this option for some since it will allow the designer/contractor to calculate the volume of insulation needed with fairly decent accuracy.

I could use some better textures for my insulation, the ones shown are pink and yellow fiberglass, rockwool and cellulose. I also have a blown fiberglass (white) not shown.

View model here:

I’ve now started wading into the window and door module, this may take me a 2-3 days to sort out since it is fairly complicated.


#69

Hi @medeek,

The method you’ve already designed is nice, and would well serve as the main option—if there’s only to be one… (e.g. with blocking being in-line, and self-centered on the wall.)

if there’s room for additional options above and beyond what you’ve already done.

Then it would be nice to have an off-set (staggered) blocking pattern, and also the ability to change where they’re positioned (height-wise on the wall).

[ Personally, with regard to an 8’ ceiling height; I don’t think I’m a big fan of landing these mid way up the wall. I’d probably opt for a bit higher than that… but only for the reason that I don’t like seeing them get too close to the electrical switch boxes that are also often set at 4’ off the floor (to top of box). ]

One of the reasons I didn’t reply to your question earlier, was that I wasn’t really prepared to do so… I don’t know what the typical building codes are for fire-blocking, and I also thought that whatever standard I do typically see, it isn’t necessarily what’s being upheld in most other areas. (I live and work in Southern California, and we don’t always adopt what the rest of the world typically does—often to our own shame, but that’s another story… folks (in power here) being absolutely convinced that they’re progressively ahead of the curve, and are acting as trend setters… for nearly everyone.)

After reading your reply, and seeing the question, I called up a contractor friend of mine who I knew did a lot of framing earlier in his career. And I asked him about how he used to locate his blocking? as well what how that has changed over time.

a quick summary of what he told me:

In the old days… he’d block out 3 stud bays from every corner. and center them along the walls height.

adjacent blocking (3 bays out) from window and door openings was also done… but in this case the blocking height was centered relative to the rough opening height used for the door/window (and not based on overall wall height).

nowadays… blocking typically happens in every stud bay. halfway up the wall.

[… with no attempts made to adjust heights relative to window/door openings. ]

… more often than not.

Thanks for all the work in progress updates you provide @medeek.

I really enjoy them, and I learn a lot by reading them.


#70

We do staggered blocking (easier for nailing). Building codes vary. Fire Blocking was implemented when balloon framing was common. Now - not so much. In some areas blocking is only necessary on tall walls greater than 8 or 10 feet in height.

On another note. You would be better off to separate windows and doors from walls. This would give designers the ability to choose their own door and window package. Perhaps it would be better just to concentrate on door openings. Unless that is you want to get into all the features of doors and windows such as this.

These doors are interactive and open and close. This double door with side lights include an astragal.

Then there are the commercial doors that have pivot hinges such as this one.


#71

My primary concern with windows and doors right now is the framed openings. At some point I would like to provide my own window and door plugin which is tightly integrated with the wall plugin but that is a chore for another day. Besides as you have shown above there are plenty of options for well made door components and other plugins that fill this niche.

My question to the SketchUp designer community is how do I best serve you so that you can utilize your favorite components or plugins for windows and doors. It would be nice to tie in with another plugin so that one could easily place the windows and doors into the framed openings.

Tell me what you want to do with this, I am open to whatever makes the most sense.


#72

Given the plethora of doors and windows available in the 3DW, for my purposes specifying the rough opening and having it magically appear with proper framing is more than sufficient.

What would be nice, but not necessary, would be round, 1/2 round and 1/4 round rough openings. I’m seeing enough of them in home designs that it will likely be worth the effort. I’m afraid I can’t suggest how you might do the framing of the curved edges of the rough openings - I’ve never actually done one, just gazed longingly at designs that impress me which include them!


#73

do you mean arched headers?


#74

I suppose so. I’m not really up on the terminology. Is that how they are framed? I would think it would be easier to have a horizontal header for a rectangular framed opening, then infill a bit with non load bearing framing to create the curved portion of the rough opening.

But again, I’m not a framer!


#75

Just asking for clarification.


#76

My door plugin already works with rough openings. Click 2 adjacent corners and the door inserts itself leaving a 1/4" around the sides and top of the door (you specify the rough opening).

Having built lots of curved stairs we were often asked to build curved casings for 1/2 rounds and arches. Builders would bring us jamb templates of the actual window. This was do to the fact that although the windows looked good the jambs were not completely symmetrical.

The framers would generally leave the sheathing overhanging the square opening and then jig saw out the shape based on a template of the outside of the window. They would then add in several angled pieces of framing material to roughly fill in the opening.


#77

My wife brought up the same topic with arched windows and door ways about two days ago. She has a thing for arched doorways (interior).

In all practicality an arched framed opening is really no different than a regular rectangular framed opening. All that is required is some additional infill framing and the sheathing/cladding/gypsum conforms to this modified opening. Structurally nothing really changes, at least with the cases I’ve seen.

I will add one more additional parameter to the window and door menu which allows for arched or other exotic geometry.

Window Shape:

  • Half Round
  • Quarter Round
  • Arch
  • Gothic Arch
  • Octagon
  • Left Triangle
  • Right Triangle
  • Left Trapezoid
  • Right Trapezoid
  • Half Octagon
  • Circle (Oval)
  • Pentagon
  • Triangle (Isosceles or Equilateral)
  • Clipped Corners

There are even more shapes than this but I have to start somewhere:

http://professional.pella.com/windows/features-and-options/shapes-and-sizes

Just when I think I’m getting close to releasing this thing you guys go and add another level of complexity to it, I guess that is why it’s so much fun. :slight_smile:


#78

The global settings will have two parameters:

Blocking Height: Center or some numeric value
Stagger Blocking: Yes / No

Once you create the walls you can also change these two parameters up for each wall panel:

See model here:


#79

Since the model can get quite heavy with all of the studs, blocking, insulation and other geometry I’ve decided to add one additional option to the basic parameters called “Wall Framing”. By turning this option to “NO” the walls are drawn with all of the internal geometry removed (ie. plates, studs, headers, kings, trimmers, insulation, holdowns etc…)

However, you can still use the advanced wall options and display sheathing, cladding and gypsum:

The model is now quite boring but is significantly more lightweight and will lend itself to quick edits by the designer. Walls and Doors can be inserted and all of the internal framing can be turned on at any time within the wall edit menu.

See model here:

The wall framing parameter will also be available within the global settings so that its default behavior can be set.


#80

I’m still recovering from a cold/flu bug so I apologize for my coughing during the video: