Intersecting Model w/Components - Not a Solid

I need to put a taper on a somewhat complex model. I have the base model (hacksaw) created but the butt (handle) is about 30mm “thick” but the nose of the saw is only about 20mm. I’ve tried making a simple box component on each side, tilting a few degrees to the inside and using the intersect model, which almost works. It nicely cuts the bevel I want on each side.

However, what it doesn’t do is leave a surface fax on the bezel cut. It only gets me halfway there. I can erase the area around the cut but then I have to try and link every bloody surface to skin it again.

I can’t imagine I’m the first chuckle head to try this. I’ve also toyed with using the cut views to just hide the geometry but of course that hides everything on the ■■■■ plane.

FYI - the intersect model works fine if it were just two simple blocks I was trying to cut my angle in. The subtract tools keep yelling at me because the hacksaw models isn’t a solid.

So frustrated, has to be a better way to skin this cat. Thank you in advance.

Link to the hacksaw file is here. Dropbox - hacksaw_file.skp - Simplify your life

There is probably a better way to fleece that feline. But you’re going to have to include a model… oh, you just did. Cool.

Your model is full of internal faces and other issues that prevent it from being considered a solid. X-ray view and Solid Inspector 2 shows the problems.

The majority of the faces are inside out, too. Applying a white material to them doesn’t fix that.

What I see in your model indicates that you aren’t going 3D early enough in the modeling process.

I let Solid Inspector 2 fix the component so it’s solid. I also fixed incorrect layer/tag usage and purged unused stuff from the file.
Screenshot - 3_9_2022 , 1_14_04 PM

Screenshot - 3_9_2022 , 1_14_20 PM

hacksaw_file.skp (493.2 KB)

Further looking at your model. Since you are working in millimeters it would make sense to change the Units from Architectural to Decimal Millimeters and turn off Length snapping.

To avoid potential issues with tiny faces, scaling up a copy of the component before modifying it would be helpful.

I made a cutter to cut both sides of the frame to the desired taper and used Trim from Bool Tools 2 (Eneroth Solid Tools would also work) to trim the frame.

Ah, slow guy here, let me make sure I understand. And thank you, this is very helpful.

To be considered a “solid,” there cannot be any internal connections (i.e., connecting points, lines, etc.), correct? You’re saying a plugin such as “Solid Inspector” can eliminate those?

Re: the inside out surfaces, what tool do I use to make sure all surfaces are ‘outward’?

What do you mean by “going 3D early enough?” I’m self-taught and have always taken the approach that if I’m going to push/pull something, I should have it outlined before extrusion. In the case of this model, I usually start with a flat line drawing in Illustrator, export to .dwg and then bring in to SU and clean up all the vectors.

The tool has varying surfaces. The bevels I’m looking to introduce are for the widest parts of the tool. The inner races and the circles are parallel surfaces. I imagine it would probably be smarter to push those items inward so that they’re set before introducing the bevels to the outer frame. Pic of the tool is here for reference. Dropbox - park_tool_hacksaw.JPG - Simplify your life

Top view of hacksaw here: Dropbox - hacksaw_top.jpg - Simplify your life

I’m all ears on skinning this proverbial cat better than what I’ve been able to figure out. I sincerely appreciate your feedback, and responding so quickly.

In simple terms to to qualify as a solid every edge must be shared by exactly two faces. No more and no fewer. So no stray edges (no faces), no holes in surfaces (1 face) and now internal faces.

Solid Inspector might be able to fix problems that prevent an object being solid. It did in the case of your model but sometimes it will require the user to make appropriate decisions about what needs to be fixed.

You can right click on faces and choose Reverse Faces to fix them. With the correct workflow, you should have few if any faces to correct. A common reason for so many reversed faces as your model showed is thinking 2D for too long. A better process would be to draw only the perimeter of the shape and any through holes. Then extrude to 3D before adding any additional features.

See above.

The problem in your model is the surface is divided into small regions so you need to extrude multiple faces to get the thing to be 3D. This creates the exposed reversed faces and the internal faces. If you start with only the outside shape and any through holes, then go 3D, and then add the features like the recesses on either side, you’ll eliminate many if not all of the problems your current model had.

If I were modeling that saw frame I would model the recesses as positive shapes that could be used to trim the solid frame similar to the way I showed trimming the frame to give it the taper.

Here is an example in which I did what I describe.

The large parts of the U-joint were initially shaped with Follow Me around a circle and then I modeled cutter shapes to create the cutout on the inside as well as the outside profile in the side view at the bottom right. If you’re bored you can see the modeling process for this thing here.