Gold-Plated Crystal Vase


#1


#2

Fabulous. What did you use for the render?


#3

I used KerkyThea with the SU2KT plugin for SketchUp.


#4

Question there . . Did you have a skp or what ever it is file I wonder if my 3D printer could make this in 2 colours maybe Blue and Yellow ( only colours I have right now ) . . I upgraded to the 2016 make version yesterday . . Will it go in there ? And how big is it ?
I have about a 6.5 inch cube of space in my 3D printer to put things in
I really like this . . If it works I might try it in glow in the dark PLA or ABS . . ( which comes in 4 colours ) . .


#5

This model isn’t suitable for 3D printing. I was more concerned with it rendering properly than worrying about whether it was a solid or not (it isn’t, BTW). However, I like the idea of printing it in two colors and I plan to have a different version that would be printable. If you have any suggestions of the appearance, etc., now would be the time to make them (I won’t be toying with another design for about six or seven hours from now).


#6

It looked okay to me and might be a challenge to print with the layers n the curved parts but since it is STRAIGHT UP with the right number of Raft / Bridge layers it should work . .
I have a dual Extruder 3 D printer made for things like 2 colours …


#7

Oh yeah they have Gold and Red as colours and they have a Transparent also So it could almost come out like what you see there ! . . Yell when you get it done !


#8

I’ve re-worked things so that it’s about 3.25" in diameter, 3" tall, and has a shape better suited for 3D printing (however, as @Box would say, it’s more tractor than sportscar):

I don’t have a printer, but my virtual dual-extruder MakerBot seemed to have no problem digesting the file:

Here’s the file: vase3.skp (1.8 MB)

Note: The 12 wide sections are grouped with the base and need to be exported as a single STL file. The 12 smaller segments are grouped separately and need to be exported as a separate STL file. When exporting, make sure you have selected the proper group and that the “Export selected geometry only” option is checked. Your printer software should allow you to import the first STL file and then add the second STL file. Each is then assigned to the proper extruder.


#9

Well will give it a run and see how it goes . . Like the Vase looks good . . First run will be in one colour and 1 extruder to see how it comes out . . So I add the entire thing into a group and then export to the stl file right ? . . Comes out right I will make it with translucent and gold . . Here goes a test run . . Oh yeah I recently added 2016 Sketchup MAKE to my laptop will this one go there


#10

No need to add it to a group. Just make sure nothing is selected in the model and export it like this:

MakerBot imports it like this:


#11

Okay I use Linux ( Ubuntu 15.10 64 bit ) and Makerbot only runs in windows and I don’t like to have to many things stuck in windows ( I have Slic3r and Repetier-Host to make the parts with in Linux both are open for Windows users also ) . . Oh yeah and free !
Well thanks for the way to load it into Sketchup Make 2016 . . Just got this one installed 2 days ago deleted the previous 2015 version and had to re install all the extensions I had in 2015 into the new 2016 version . .


#12

I kind of gathered that from some of your posts :wink:

I downloaded Slic3r and it gives this result:

You shouldn’t have any problems with the STL file.


#13

I get lazy some times and do the assistant wizard to do most of the work so things get setup for either ABS or PLA as the extruder temp and bed temp is different for each
And thanks for the reply so fast . .


#14

Aww GEEZ the move I made of the 3D printer to the top of a 5 gallon bucket with a piece of Ply wood under it ! !
I messed up some how as it now ges a COLD DRAFT from some where
. . Seems as I now have to make a box around the 3D Printer or the part will cool and warp then get ripped off the heated bed . . And then I have to add a hinged door to get to the parts when done . . Seems from What I have found on the web some one else had same problem parts being ripped loose from the heated bed . . Wondered why 4 or 5 times I started to make parts and they got ripped loose . . Was driving me crazy I leveled my heated bed to under .001 difference corner to corner side to side and still it ripped off parts ( . . So those of you who have a heated bed ANY COLD DRAFT WILL MAKE THE PART WARP and then it gets ripped loose and dragged around by the hot end of the extruder nozzle and ruin your part and day . .Hey by the way at 90 % fill this 3 inch tall JAR will take 8 hours 17 minutes and 37 seconds according to Repetier-host at 274 layers