Here’s the sign with the wrought iron work. I had to fatten it up a bit as 1:48 printed scrolls would be very fragile.
Did some more design work on the interiors of the stores. This computer is wonderful. I had some minor glitches where SU wasn’t responding to Track Pad clicks on some of the dialog boxes. For example: clicking the back arrow on the SketchUp 3D Warehouse screen wasn’t responding, nor were the cancel or accept buttons on the “Make Component” Dialog. Added to that were empty boxes where the “colors in the model” were supposed to be dispalyed. Then today I did a mild update on Mac OS to Tahoe version 24.1 and the problems magically disappeared. I am a great computer user, but I am not a computer expert, so I just chalk it up to supernatural beings that inhabit these amazing machines.
Trivia fact: the number of discrete transistors in the M5 processor in this computer is 28 billion. To put that in perspective, imagine what that would be if this machine was constructed like the orginal ENIAC at U of P. I don’t know if each vacuum tube was a single logic gate or if they use duplex tubes. Regardless, the number of vacuum tubes would be between 14 and 28 billion. I sincerly doubt that 28 billion vacuum tubes have ever existed. Heaters in each tube took between 1 and 2 watts for small tubes. That’s 28 to 56 giga watts just to heat the tubes so they can emit electrons. Imagine the heat loading of having to cools 28 billion vacuum tubes. 56 gigawatts is 50 to 60 nuclear power plants. I beleve that’s about 9 minutes worth of all the power produced in the USA. I know all this thanks to Google’s AI. Say what you will, it gives great answers to these trivial questions. And all of that processing power is siting on my lap on my Eames Chair while I watch Rory McIlroy win his 2nd Masters. We live in an amazing age… and we’re going back to the moon again.
I was married for a year when Neil Armstrong stepped off the LEM. Hopefully, I’m planning on being around when it happens again.
I finished the furnishings for the travel bureau and the little store on the other end. The chairs and other fittings are all 3D printable, but they’re going to be really fragile.
Here’s the travel bureau:
And for the for the remaining store I figured, I have a distillery, a bourbon aging warehouse (under construction), so why not have a store that sells used bourbon barrels.
Printing parts are almost done. One more job to run…
I got almost all the funishings finished along with some other details. I can’t procrastinate any longer and will actually have to start BUILDING a model, not just creating lots of pieces.
My reprint of the electrical meters was good and I did a test of painting the inner details and then applying Bondic to simulate the glass enclosure. I did this test quickly just as a proof of concept, but it’s pretty convincing in 1:48.
[!
The reprinted parapet cap assemblies also work well. The redesigned part included a pre-drawn and printed corner.
And onto the furnishings. I was correct. The printer printed every detail, but some were so fine that just handling broke some connections. I was using Bondic throughout the support removal to reinforce and fix sensitive joints. Here’s the desk chair. It’s amazing the legs can hold it up. And the gooseneck lamp on the desk was printed with the desk and held together. I just had to reinforce the joint where the light meets the arm.
The barber chair had even more frail details, but it will work… especially since you’ll be viewiing them through clear styrene windows. The towel rack under the arm resolved and it’s ridiculously tiny as compared to the point on that #11 blade.
The waiting room chairs for the barber shop are a more robust design and printed perfectly and held up during cleaning.
The last part that was done today was the barber shop operators’ stations. I drew them with the faucets in place, but somewhere in moving stuff around, they got separated from the counter top and printed in mid air attached by supports to the mirror space. I redrew them correcting the error and while the new ones were printed I experimented with reattaching the faucets to the counter. That actually worked.
Here’s comparing the new print with the repaired wrong print. The fixed one actually would work also.
Painting the plumbing will be fun…
Lastly, the signage was printed nicely. The blank signs will get printed graphics and the World Travels will be picked out in paint.
Till next time…
This is a large two-day post. Please bear with me.
I had a whole discussion about the limitations of using drawings downloaded directly from the SketchUp 3D Warehouse. Many drawings are incapable of being 3D printable for many reasons, but some are. I wanted to print the barrels for the Ye Olde Bourbon Barrel Store. I found nice barrels and, with only some limited editing was able to print them. The artist drew them using separately drawn slats that were just about scale thickness and that was the rub. I thickened the sides by inserting a cylinder that had some heft, but didn’t reinfoce the bottom. As a result the bottom was almost paper thin. The Elegoo Saturn 4 Ultra is capable of printing ridiculously thin sections. They are so fragile that cleaning, etc. typically destroys them. I printed the barrels open side up with the supports on the bottom leaving a ton of support stubs. Removing these stubs would destroy the bottom in the process.
I chose to pour some liquid UV resin onto the bottom with a pipette and then cure it with my Bondic UV LED. it thickened the bottom sufficiently so I could power sand the stubs and still have a barrel.
This was the drawing of the store’s interior.
The very thin bottom!
The Stubs that needed removal:
Filling the bottom with liquid UV Resin:
And the results after sanding. Still has some remnants of supports, but I’m not worried about them. You’re viewing all this through some styrene store windows.
I needed a rack for the bottom and printed the two rails and put it together with some styrene spacers. I epoxied these in place since CA on styrene and is untrustworthy.
I started gluing walls together. Again, I learned that CA is brittle and is a pain in the butt. The two pieces I glued together cracked apart with the thin CA I used on the joint. I went back and used epoxy on all of them. Much better. I found a nice stout piece of steel to use as a backbone to support the gluing process.
In handling, I broke away a bit of the lower cornice where the alignment tab is. I have repaired this in subsequent steps.
Wall three in place;
And all four:
That covers Monday’s work. Here’s yesterday’s. First off, take a look at the smallest cruise liner in the world. The printer didn’t disappoint. Even those tiny life boats tried to print, although most didn’t hold up and their floating around in the resin vat. I will have to clean it out to make sure nothing is stuck to the bottom barrier film. Painting this thin will be a hoot.
To glue the rear walls together I used a bigger piece of aluminum stock to hold the entire wall flat. Even with this, The joint of one of the sections shifted out of alignment and I have a slight problem. It’s the back side that will be at ruight angles to most viewers so it isn’t a showstopper, just annoying.
Clamping is complicated by the wall extensions that are there for corner reinforcement or the surrounds of the windows. Those surrounds are there to support inner wall “plaster” surface.
While this was curing I starting repairing the front walls, starting with the missing bricks. I cut the brick extensions from the spar wall I had and used these to fill the gaps. A little dot of Gel CA secured them in place. Gel gives you some working time so you can move things around a bit before it kicks. In this image you can also see the Bondic repaired section of the cornice at the bottom of the image.
Corner fits have been problematic and required some hand fitting to get them right. I blame this on the switch from laser cutting the walls to 3D printing them and the decision to go from a butt joint to mitered corner. Where I chose to miter was not 100% accurate. I’ve had to remove some of impinging material to get a good fit as seen here.
Along with the cruise ship, I also drew and printed some inside window frames. This was a quick little print that will make interior detailing much easier. I’ve always said that doing scale buildings with interiors is “Doll houses for Men.” These wil go on top of the “Sheet rock” interior wall covering. Speaking of sheet rock, I’m thinking about cutting all of them out of thick artists water color paper using the Silhouette digital cutter. I’m also using the Silhouette to score the 0.010" clear styrene window glazing. This is all measured and drawn waiting for the time to cut and install it. I’m going to glue one end wall to one assembled long wall, forming two right-angled assemblies. Painting and mortaring will be done then followed by glazing and then bringing the assemblies together. That will be on two long glue joints that need to be done carefully since the adjacent walls will be painted.
Whew! Now you’re all up to date.
I’m quickly coming to the realization that 3D printing an entire O’scale brick building isn’t earrsy. If the machine was big enough to print the entire long wall intact, that would have helped. And my scheme of overlapping the brick faces only, while looking great in SketchUp, just didn’t cut it in the real world. That said, I never give up and it will be a respectible addition to the village. I glued the first corners to the long walls after doing some more filling, filing, sanding and re-scribing mortar lines.
I added all those protrusions on the insides of the walls to facilitate adding “sheet rock” and positioning and supporting floors and the roof, but I didn’t anticipate hows these things sticking out would interfere with clamping. The rear corner I glued was much easier to align and hold than the front right corner. When the epoxy sets on the rear corner it will be much easier to clean up.
I used epoxy only to make these critical joints. I did the right side to front right corner joint first. It was touch and go throughout the process. I was hard to see the alignment as I had to hang it over the edge of the work surface. I literally have to hold the joint with my fingers to keep it aligned. And to do this I had to sit on the floor so I could look up at the joint as it started to cure. At least 5 minute epoxy starts to get pretty tacky by 3 or 4 minutes. Getting up from that position on the floor was awful. I’m getting to old for this malarky. My right hip really didn’t like sitting cross-legged for that long. No permanent damage.
Unfortunately, I didn’t take a picture of the way I held the upper corner together. I was too busy sitting on the floor. I used a angle block clamped to the end wall and a clamp holding it to the long wall once I got it in alignment, but I still had to keep very precise finger pressure to keep the bevels as tight as possible. When the upper long bevel cured, I adjusted the coner clamp after adding epoxy to that joint. It was very tenuous.
The resultant joint worked, but has significant gaps. I discovered after it was all cured that a tiny part of the lower window frame was interfering with the mating corner an was holding the bevel apart. Too late to fix that.
After a judicious application of Bondic coupled with sanding and re-scribing the mortar lines, the corner works and when painted and mortar will work out well. In retrospect the bevel concept was good, adding all those appendages on the inside was bad. Those window spacers could have been printed separately and added after tying the walls together. That goes from all the floor ledges too. It would have made clamping so much easier and more predictable.
Here it is after repair
I also re-scrbed around the repaired bricks on the front walls. Maybe that irregualarities of the bricks will add character to the building. One can olny hope…
Clamping the rear left corner was much easier due to the smooth inner surface of the wall in that area. Here, I got the bevel much tighter during glue up.
And a closer look…
Some filling will still be needed, but much less than the front corner.
You can clearly see the troubles I had with the wall joinery on the back wall. This discontinity will still be seen after painting and finishing.
I also discovered a ridiculous error when I put the partially built structure on its place on the layout.
If you look really closely at the top image, you see that the panelization is missing on the lower window area on the right end. It ends up that I drew the rectangle, but never extruded into the surface the 1.5" scale leaving the surface flat.
So what to do? I’m not ripping the building apart and reprinting it, although I could fix the fit problems by printing both parts of that corner. Resin isn’t cheap, and I don’t like wasting it. Plan B is to put a billboard on that surface advertising a special deal on a trip to Borneo or somewhere exotic. There’s always a way to recover…
Couldn’t help myself… I had to trial fit all four walls. The front left corner is going to work much better than the right. Also noticed that I neglected to install the floor ledges on the right side rear and end. Hmmm…. I wonder if Hopper worked as hard painting his masterpiece?
I finished the other corner that I completed yesterday by sanding the filler and re-scribing the mortar lines to the edges. Looks decent…
I was ready to take the two sub-walls to the outside to do the first painting, but had to stop. I needed to add the missing roof/floor ledges to the insides before going further. I’ve got to tell ya… I expected my new monster MacBook Pro M5 pro to be faster doing SketchUp, but it’s faster doing anything including uploading these image files. They load in a second… literally, and they’re a couple of MB each.
And I added that missing filler piece on the front left store’s door. Took a little fiddling to get it perfect.
Outside—perfect weather for painting—I started painting white primer on the inside walls, but stopped when I realized that these walls will be covered with the “sheet rock” and don’t need primer. The outside brick areas were shot with Tamiya Dark Red rattle can. I chose this brick color to add variety to the brick buildings on my layout. After mortar and weathering, it will appear a lot less red. The brick anomalies don’t look as bad as they did in the raw.
Then I did something new! I pressed the Silhouette Vinyl Cutter into scribing 0.010" sytrene sheet for the window glazing. Not knowing what would work, I did some Internet searching, but then decided to figure it our on my own. I made a test sheet with some rectangles. i bought a heavy duty tungsten curret to last longer cutting plastic, and cut one with a setting of cutter depth, pressure and speed, checked it and re-adjusted. After five iterations, I ended up with full depth of 10 on the on cutters adjustment ring, 25 pressure, slow speed and 5 passses giving a good scribe that enabled me to snap the part cleanly. I loaded the file with the small windows and was rewarded with all the windows beautifully cut. Some cut all the way through, others just needed a little persuasion to separate them.
I now have a pile of these windows.
All of the store windows are drawn which I will cut tomorrow. The fit of the windows in the opening is perfect.
Using the Silhouette was so much easier than using a square and exacto knife to cut them by hand. I measured all the spaces with a caliper to two decimel places with great results. So far, I’ve used the cutter to make custom lettering for the engine room, custom paint masks for a colleague and now to cut/scribe clear styrene for glazing. I can also scribe styrene for scratch building. It is a great tech addition to the shop.
What you can’t do with these kinds of cutters i start with one depth, adjust deeper and cut again, and so forth. It would require the machine to accurately retrace the same path after stopping and fiddling with the cutter depth. This is not recommended. Really deep cuts can only be done on softer materials.
I will mask and paint some more of the building, and have to decide when I should be adding the mortar lines. i have two more joints to make that will need filling and clean up. That will disturb any painting which I will have to plan around.
All of the windows are now cut. Since these windows have some different sizes I also etched identifiers to tell them apart. However, I didn’t want them cut out for various reasons, so I cut the windows at one setting leaving the letters uncut and then reset the print without removing the sheet from the machine to etch the letters.
I’m trying a different mortar technique using artists acrylics instead of joint compound. Joint compound has a lot of mineral loading and when scrubbing it off, you also remove some of the base brick color. The acrylic is silky smooth so there’s no abrasion. I’m using makeup application sponges to remove the excess and a wide/flat artist brush. There are very fine layer lines in the bricks which do trap a bit of the grout coat. I use a dry sponge for the first wipe and a damp one for the clean up. The crazy wall joint is less weird looking with the mortar work done.
ther drawing error that went unnoticed until it was too late. The window assembly had moved outward in the drawing and printed extended from the wall, without a sill. It’s WAY too late. If I would have found it before gluing everything together with epoxy, at least I would have been able to choose to reprint. That’s at least the third thing that crept in just from design errors. The misalignment of the back walls was my assembly error.
Regardless, this whole project is an experiment. I’m using a resin printer to print entire walls with bricks, tried a new way to match the bricks at the joint lines, printed walls with most of the reinforcement parts integrated with the print, pinted O’scale furnishings with ridiculously tiny details, and am using a digital vinyl cutter to cut the windows. The fact that’s it’s reached this point is okay by me.
Monday will have the mortar work done on the other half. I’m going to mask the outside of the miters to help prevent epoxy from getting on the painted brickwork. After mortar, I’ll be doing all the detail painting of the window frames and store fronts, plus all the other things that need color. I like that part of modeling.
Happy Friday and have a great weekend.
Spent Sunday afternoon having fun with SketchUp and designing the next building. The actual store in Lambertville is Sojourne, but I will rename it. The front brickwork is insane with at least 3 levels and stair-step brick work transitioning from one level to another. I noticed that all the pilasters are divisible by the a brick’s width dimension. I didn’t account for this normal feature of bricks structures in designing Early Sunday Morning and had to fill spaces with partial bricks that weren’t simply a brick’s depth. Also I tackled the complex window frame design first. It seemed like a good place to start. Next I’ll work on the massive complex cornice and bracket system at the roof line. The sides and rear of the building are plain and very pedestrian.
To draw over a photo fo the building I had to edit the frontal image in CorelDraw PhotoPaint to eliminate all the perspective distortion caused by shooting the picture from ground level. It isn’t perfecrt, but it worked reasonably well. I then measured the building’s footprint using the measurement tool included in Google Earth and determine the approximate height by placing the cursor at street level, noting it’s elevation above sea level and then placing it on the roof, noting that elevation and subtracting the smaller from the larger giving the approximate height. Armed with these two dimensions I drew the building’s enclosure and then scaled the image on its face. Placing the character, that’s always present when you start a new SketchUp drawing, in the doorway tested the scaling. She measures 5’6" and the door came in just about 7 feet which is a good number to use. You can also pull screen prints from Google Earth street view on existing structures to get more details. I’ve covered all of this before three years ago when I designed the N-Gauge buildings for the Newtown Hardware holiday layout with tiny replicas of other Newtown buildings.
Notice that the brick lintel arches over the windows are different between the 2nd and 3rd floors. They are slightly arched on the 3rd and flat in the 2nd. I may print the window frames separately to faciliate glazing and control any problems like I had with ESM. That said, the filigree nature of the store windows might be more stable if printed with the wall and not separately. 3D printing is more art than science.
You can’t simply scale the big windows to fit the smaller space on the right set. Scaling will shrink everything in the horizaontal direction making the vertical mullions and struture too narrow and not matching the others. I will have to redrawing the glazing to the new sizes and the cut and paste all the other structures, while selectively scaling them to create the new window.
While I still can’t print an entire wall of this size in my printer, for this building, I’m going to split the walls horizontally along natural breaks to completely avoid the hiding-the-seams-by-messing-with-the-bricks technique. That experiment will not be repeated.
SketchUp’s stability with the new laptop has be wonderful. everything is smooth and fast. It’s taking much less time and frustration doing the design now. The MacBook Pro M5 Pro costs a small fortune, but without it, my custom work would have been over. We’ve reached a point in time where you not only have to be a clever craftsperson, but a skilled computer graphics designer. I’m happy I took the time years ago at work to force myself to learn the graphics programs. I used them frequently in my work, and now in my avocation.
Now I’m headed back to the shop to do some more mortar work… Check in later for latest progress.
Is anyone reading this? I haven’t had any comments for over 20 days.
Back to Early Sunday Morning…
I did the mortar lines on the front assembly and then masked for the first painting; the red store front on the left end. I’m using Vallejo Vermillion Red, which is a a very pure “fire engine red” that dries with a little sheen, but it dries really showly. It flashes off with some help with a hot air gun, but it’s still sticky. I’m letting it dry overnight before masking for the Deep Greem of the rest of the store fronts.
Before airbrushing the red I had to completely disassemble my ancient Badger X 150. The needle was sticking and it needed some deep cleaning.
First the masking.
This is the result of two coats with the first being forced dry by the hot air gun.
While this was drying a bit, I practiced painting the windows and lintels on some scrap pieces.
And then I started painting the deails on the rear assembly. Can’t do the front until the masking and store fronts are done.
The sandstone color is a mix of Tamiya Buff, White and Neutral Gray. It’s also a good new concrete mix. Incidentally, the two lintels in this image were crafted from 0.040" X 0.125" strip styrene as printed lintels didn’t because they weren’t on the drawing. I will not go into the minutia of why they weren’t there, but it has something to do with copying the one building end and pasting it to the other in a mirror image.
I have to go to the hobby shop tomorrow to buy more Tamiya Dark Red Spray. I’m going to need it for touch up of the brick work.
Rest assured everyone is still checking out your work. I haven’t commented much lately as I’m at a loss for words. How about the work on your tiny buildings is downright amazing. 
yes, and wow 
I’m following it even more than the ships, because I don’t know a lot about ships, but I know a bit about painting, and buildings. it’s a really cool project !
Thanks Guys! Will keep posting.
Even with a visit to the hobby shop I got a lot more done today. I got the cornice built and painted and all the exterior front painting done save for the lintels over the windows.
I used the aluminum bar again, this time to ensure that the 3-part cornice would glue straight. I also clamped it to a very flat table surface and then epoxied it together.
After it cured I filled the small gaps with Bondic and sanded it smooth.
And then, along with the store fronts, I airbrushed Tamiya Dark Green. It wasn’t quite dry when I took the pic.
I had some color bleed when painting the red storefront, and used some clear Tamiya paint to seal all the masked edges.
After painting the results were good with no bleed. This is all held together by two pieces of masking tape.
When the green was almost dry I got all the window frames painted. All that’s left is the front lintels and some mild weathering.
As a reminder, here’s Hopper’s masterpiece. Looks like I’m going to need to make some awnings.
Your job is great, you should post it on social media as well, there are SketchUp and 3D printing groups where you’ll get a lot more attention than on a forum. Not saying that you should stop posting here, I really appreciate the work you’re doing but you’ll have a lot more interaction on social media. If you already are active on any platform please share it, I’d love to follow you there as well.
Francis, I do occasionally post on FaceBook, but it limits the amount of prose that I like to include. I post my finished models on my own FB page, but that’s limitied to friends viewing. I will check out the SU related sites to see if it pays to post there too.
Exterior paint work is done except for any weathering. I’m paying attention to the interior walls and the assembly sequence before I put in the glazing. The less messing around with stuff after glazing the better. I want to paint the interior walls and the partitions before glazing for obvious reasons, but some assembly will have to be done AFTER glazing so I will have to be careful.
Painting was completed with doing the concrete base edge, the lintels and the back doors. Here’s the rear. Door knobs are painted with gold from a paint pen. Wish I could have done something about those joints…
Front wall: Joints in the front are much better.
I ran into a challenge with the inside partitions. They weren’t reaching the ground floor level. Once again, I’m not sure when the error crept in. When the partitions are keyed into their guides they were short of the floor by a little over 0.070" in the right partition and about an 1/8th inch in the right partition. I’m good at “lengthening” things. I also had to relieve one edge of the right partition to fit over a floor ledge. I must have either added or moved that ledge after I drew the partition. This is the one drawback of custom 3D printing for me. If you old-school scratch-building, you’d be handling the actual parts and would know immediately if something is interfering with something else. With 3D Drawing, when parts interfere, you may not know it. The simply pass right through one another. You don’t know they were interfering until after printing and trial fitting. It doesn’t bother me as I kind of expect this, but it would certainly require modifying the drawings if there was ever the opportunity to issue the model or STLs as kits for others.
I had started making the interior “sheet rock” for the 2nd floor, and finished this one piece, but then stopped because I needed to determine the exact spacing of the partitions and that led me to trial fit all them and find the problems that I noted above. I’m using a nice still water-color artist paper for these wall coverings. Being watercolor paper, I can use water-based acrylics without worrying about the paper degrading. These panels will be installed and painted prior to the glazing going in. I’m not putting wall covering on the front walls since you will not be able to view well in that direction. Also, that space you see is for the 1st floor ceiling piece. It all four wall coverings were in place, you would not be able to get the floors in. It may mean I have to put the wall coverings in AFTER the ceiling pieces are installed.
Went back and checked where that height error was coming from. When I hid the floor plate, there it was… both partitiions not touching the floor line by varying amounts.
Had I taken the time to view it that way, I would have picked it up.
Reading through your posts and seeing your photos is really inspiring.
When I was a kid back in the 70’s/80’s my Grandparents were live-in Caretakers of a Manor House/Museum on the outskirts of a nearby town. During School Holidays my brother and I would often be packed off to stay there for weeks at a time and it has always remained a special place to us.
Recently my brother has acquired an N-Gauge Train set and you’ve inspired me to attempt to Model up and print a scale version of the Manor House for him as a gift.
Now I just need to find some free time…
I’m not a great commenter most of the time, but I ALWAYS click into your threads. What you do is spectacular! I’m always so impressed with how much time and effort and then the quality.
Great stuff here. Thanks for sharing your journey.
I too always read your posts, and love what you do.
I am very glad you are all following and I will continue posting.
Today, I did some experimentation using the vinyl cutter to create the graphics for the stores. My first attempt was to make some reverse paint masks out of Tamiya Masking Sheet stock. The type face I chose had some elements that were too narrow to cut easily and I was using 13 points type size. The trouble with making lettering masks out of normal type faces is the centers of circles, A’s, P’s, R’s, O’s etc. These centers need to be replaced when the stencil is applied to windows from the inside. I’m adding the graphics now before the windows are installed. It would be very difficult to this after installation.
Regardless, I did get a reasonable test. So I made another template cut and attempted to apply it to one of the real windows on the scribed sheet I did last week. The mask was temperamental, and wasn’t working well. In removing and attempting to reapply I damaged the styrene.
I just gave this a quick spray of Tamiya Dull Red to see it the mask worked. It did, but should have had two coats.
I suspected that this wasn’t going to get easier with my chosen small type face. I scrapped the reverse mask idea and went with positively cut lettering applied to the outside of the styrene window. This worked out well since the centers of letters are removed and discarded. I scribed a new window upon which to apply the letters. You pull the letters off the cut vinyl sheet with some Tamiya masking tape which keeps everthing in registration, and then move it to the surface. You brunish it down and then pull the Tamiya tape hoping that all the letters stay in place.
This came out nicely and I’m keeping it. It’s hard for me to apply them straigth and the words are slightly out of line. No big deal.
I cut additional lettering out of the metallic gold vinyl I have for the name of the travel agency.
This came out nicely. The “World” word was cockeyed and I couldn’t get it right. I just cut another “Word” and replaced the errant one.
More of this will happen tomorrow now that I have a better idea of what I’m doing.
Short session today. I cut the text for the bourbon barrel store window. Took two attempts. The first attempt had the cutter depth too shallow. After adjustment, got a good cut. I’m thinking that this is just about the smallest text size the cutter can do. It had trouble with the centers of the “Ps”, “Bs” and “As”. But it worked. I just realized that the word “OLD” should be “OLDE” if I’m being consistent.
I’m also printing a tiny laptop computer that’s going on the travel agency desk. No one will see it, but I’ll know it’s there. And I’m printing some interior doors in the open position. Again… will they be viewable? I highly doubt it, but it’s fun to do this stuff.
I then spent more time working out the bugs in getting the interior partitions prepared for installation. That will occur next week some time. They needed some relieving where they impact the added floor ledges that I forgot to draw originally. When they weren’t there, there wasn’t any object which which to intersect the partitiions. These partitions are way over-engineered and could have been made with ply or even foam core. They shouldn’t have to be structural, but now they will be.
Have a nice Kentucky Derby weekend!