This is a simple raised panel. SKU recognizes as 3D until I add the four diagonal lines to make the panel raised - then it no longer thinks it is 3D.
Why?
Untitled.skp (153.8 KB)
You mean it thinks it’s no longer solid?
That’s because you’re leaving an internal face.
Try this as an easier way of creating the raised panel. Draw the flat panel as you did at 6mm thick. Then get the Offset tool and create offset edges on the front face 25 mm in from the edges. With the Select tool, double click on the inner rectangle to select the face and its edges. Get the Move tool and while holding Alt, Move the selected face and edges out to create the raised panel.
Add an extra offset 6mm in from the edges and use Push/Pull on the field after the Move operation and create tongues to go into the grooves and a little more interesting raised panel.
Yes - it is no longer a solid object. I understand the procedures you outlined and I will go try them. I don’t see the internal face you are referring to. I created the 6mm object and drew a rectangle in the center then extruded the rectangle, At this point I still had a solid object. I then extruded the solid object and drew the four diagonal lines creating the angled faces. Then I removed the internal lines subsequently removing the internal face - or so I thought.
Regardless I appreciate your help and am off to try your method. Thanks again Dave. Rick
Your idea worked but Solid Inspector2 fixed it up nicely.
Thanks,
Rick
I don’t have to get in a hurry over anything
because tomorrow will still be Saturday 
To find flaws in a tentative solid, it is often helpful to create a section cut. This one shows the internal face that is causing the problem:
BTW – your way is MUCH easier!
Thanks,
Rick
1 Like
Thank you - I did not know that.
OK– I have the same problem with this object. It seems Solid Inspector2 says it fixed but when I reload the drawing, SI2 fixes it again.
Any ideas why this is not a solid object.
Thanks,
Rick
Untitled2.skp (252 KB)
You’ve got faces overlapping–the blue and white indicates multiple faces in the same space.
You also have a bunch of other reversed faces that need to be fixed.
In addition there’s some other odd geometry at the end there. What are you trying to accomplish in this thing?
This is a part of some base molding for a cabinet I am building.
It starts off straight then starts (on a 45) an outward bend coming back to straight at the end.
The profile is one of my shaper profiles.
Now that I know it is multiple faces maybe I can fix it.
Thanks again,
Rick
Rick, maybe I can show you a better way to make that molding.
You might want to edit your last post since it contains your phone and fax numbers as well as your e-mail address.
Thanks
Dave - I am always open to suggestions. Attached is the same example but with the addition of the base piece of wood after it has had the curve applied from the shaper.
Note that it is a solid object.
The next step would be to apply the profile from the first drawing to the base piece. I drew the profile as lines and arcs and then c/p to the object on one of the square ends. Then I used the follow-me tool to extrude around the outside.
Thanks,
Rick
Untitled2.skp (264 KB)
I used to get those all the time until you taught me to work larger. I wonder if the molding he is doing is too small?
OK, Rick, I see what you’re trying to do. I’ll fix up something for you. Is this a molding for the side of a cabinet? Is there a similar one on the front and a mirrored version on the opposite side?
@Robajohn, I don’t think the scale is an issue here. I think it has more to do with the basic setup of the geometry.
The molding is for the base for two sides. There is none on the back side and the front has no problems.
Thanks,
Rick
Maybe it would help if I explained the basic procedure.
First I start off with a piece of wood that is comfortably wider than what is needed.
Next I shape a bulge on the shaper.
Next I apply a profile on the shaper along the full length (bulge side). Since I am using the Aigner curve shaping system, I can follow the contour previously cut easy enough.
Lastly I rip it the final width.
Maybe this helps.
Thanks,
Rick
[https://sea2.discourse-cdn.com/sketchup/user_avatar/forums.sketchup.com/daver/45/7601_1.png]
DaveRhttp://forums.sketchup.com/users/daver SketchUp Sage
January 18
OK, Rick, I see what you’re trying to do. I’ll fix up something for you. Is this a molding for the side of a cabinet? Is there a similar one on the front and a mirrored version on the opposite side?
@Robajohnhttp://forums.sketchup.com/users/robajohn, I don’t think the scale is an issue here. I think it has more to do with the basic setup of the geometry.
Rick, I think I understand the process in the shop. I don’t think it’s the method you should use in SketchUp, though. I have to catch up on a few things and then I’ll show you a way to handle this which will prevent issues with parts not being solid.
Dave – I have no doubt there may be a better method.
Having said that, I just repeated the shop procedures – and it worked this time. I did have to create the profile from scratch again.
Attached is the solid object with the created profile. The attachment file name is the same. You may want to save it to a different name because it does not contain the history.
I sure do appreciate your help and any suggestions you might have on a better way. Maybe the working attached model may help.
Thanks,
Rick
Untitled2.skp (379 KB)
I’m glad you got the solid component this time. Here’s the approach I’d use for drawing the molding parts.
From left to right:
- Draw the molding profile as a face. Think sliver of the cross section of the molding. Also draw a path to represent the edge of the molding. In this case I have the left side, front and a little bit of a return on the right side. That return will help make the miter for the right front corner.
- Select the entire path, get Follow Me and click on the profile.
- Since you said you rip the molding to thickness after the molding pass on the shaper, I filled in the back side to make it flat. This only required connecting the ends of the arcs top and bottom with straight lines and the erasing the unneeded edges.
- While you still have the Line tool, draw in the lines for the miters at the corners top and bottom. You only need to do this for horizontal faces because they don’t get divided automatically.
- Drag a right to left selection box around the end of the return and delete it. This will leave a miter on the right end of the front molding piece.
- Drag a left to right selection box around the front molding and make it a component. Make sure Replace selection with component is checked. Triple click on the side molding geometry to select all of that geometry. Make a component. Both should be solid but if one isn’t open it for editing and draw a line along one of the miter edges to heal the missing miter face. Copy the side component over to the opposite end of the front molding and use Flip Along to mirror it. Put it in place.
The steps sound more tedious than they are and the process goes quickly. You can make all the molding sticks you need in a single Follow Me operation and easily create the required components from the result.